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  1. #21
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    To anyone who wants to do an ABS delete, here's a short guide.

    The master cylinder that is in the top left right of the engine bay with have two outputs on it; a front and a rear. Now with the original ABS, both the front and rear outputs of the master cylinder are routed behind and just to the top of the engine on the bulkhead and go to the ABS module at the rear left of the engine bay. Here the ABS takes the two front and rear inputs and then has 3 outputs; front right, front left, and rear. The front left just goes from the ABS directly to the wheel arch and into the caliper, but the front right and the rear go from the ABS module and again are attached to the bulkhead where the original ABS input lines run. This then makes 4 lines that run behind the engine across of the bulkhead.

    Okay, that's how the stock ABS is routed. Now if you want to get rid of the ABS, there are some lines that you will need to run. You may be thinking that there are 4 calipers but only 2 outputs from the master cylinder.

    Well lets start on the rears, there is only a single brake line that runs down the car to the rear. At the back of the car there is a T-Piece that splits the rear brake line into 2 to serve the rear calipers. Now at the very start of the transmission tunnel there is a small block that is connected to this line that goes to the rear, you can just about see it in the photo below (where the copper line runs to):



    So all you do is connect a line from the master cylinder into this block and that's the rears sorted. Either in that connector or the T-Piece at the rear there is a built in restrictor, so you don't need to worry about brake bias.

    Now the next part is the fronts. Since there is only 1 front output from the master cylinder and 2 calipers, you have two choices. You can either get a non-abs brake master cylinder from a skyline or Z32 which will have 3 outputs (front right, front left, rear), or you can just put in a T-Piece and copy the rears.

    Check a few posts above for the reasons why I have routed the lines like I have.

    So you're gonna need a T-Piece, I got mine from Vehicle Wiring Products. You will need a one with 10mm x 1 fittings. So you will need to route a line from the BMC to the T-Piece, and then 2 lines from the T-Piece to each of the front calipers. Bare in mind that the T-Piece has concave connectors, so you will need a bubble flare and not a double flare to connect to it. All the other connection in the car like the BMC and the connector near the transmission tunnel will need normal double flares.

    Here's a finished photo of the T-Piece showing the connections that go to the front calipers, the black piping goes to the front left and the copper on the opposite side goes back across the bulkhead to the front right caliper. The input at the top is from the BMC.



    And finally this is how the BMC should look:



    I haven't finished it just yet, but you can see that the rear port on the BMC goes has the black pipe that runs across the bulkhead to the T-Piece. You can see the connector for the rears, with a tubing that coming out of it going to the BMC's rear output that I need to finish off and connect.

    Edit:
    Also when I describe the left or right of the car, it's as if you're sitting in the car and not viewing it from the engine back. So when I say front right caliper, this is the drivers or offside one.
    Last edited by andeep; 24-08-2010 at 17:00.

  2. #22
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    Nice1 Andeep - really useful as I'm gonna do this after I've upgraded my rear brake setup with the Skyline conversion (sliding-r has recently done this)


    I think this should deffo be added to the useful threads section


    S14a Track Machine Progress Thread >> Click Here <<

  3. #23
    craig8585 is offline I'm so cool, I have my own fan thread :p
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    Thanks for the write-up Andeep, I'm sure it will be useful for some people. I'll link it to the useful threads.

    Did you find much out regarding the electronic side of things related to the ABS?

  4. #24
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    No problem guys!

    Haven't found out any information about the electronics side of it, but I'm hoping that the speedo works okay with the ABS pump taken out. It still has the electronic control box in, so shouldn't be a problem.

    What I really wanted to know is how I can use the S14 speedo from the gearbox with the car instead of it taking the reading from the ABS sensor in the diff. It would be great if its just a case of plug and play, but I'm not sure how I would ever find out. Reason is that I might want to be able to use a GTR diff casing and GTR driveshafts as they are a lot stronger than S15 ones.

    If anyone has any information about the signals that come off the ABS sensor in the diff and the gearbox, let me know.
    Last edited by andeep; 25-08-2010 at 23:20.

  5. #25
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    ABS delete is finished, just need to fill and bleed the system and pray it doesn't leak!



    Here's a photo of the engine bay to show how the brake hoses are routed:


  6. #26
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    Made a bit more progress with the gearbox conversion today with just sorting out the little niggles and prepping the gearbox for installation.

    ACT HD 6 Puk Paddle clutch:


    Make sure you get a sprung pressure plate, if you don't you'll probably blow the gearbox up after 1 or 2 clutch kicks



    Driftworks Lightened flywheel:



    Box of random bits that you will need for the conversion:



    The gearbox that I got was from an import SR20DET PS13 with only 50,000kms on it:



    S14 Prop:



    The S15 transmission loom uses different connectors to that S14 ones, so I swapped them over and soldered on the S15 connectors:





    Inside of the bellhousing was full of clutch, so cleaned it all off:



    All cleaned up and a Nismo Reinforced clutch pivot installed:



    Cleaned up the clutch fork and the release bearing carrier:



    Everything greased up and installed into the input shaft:



    Dust cover installed and slave cylinder installed:

    Last edited by andeep; 28-08-2010 at 18:44.

  7. #27
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    Install the spigot bearing into the end of the crank (only do this if you are installing a 5-Speed transmission, with a 6-Speed it goes into the flywheel). Also make sure you put the metal plate on before you put the flywheel on:



    Install the flywheel and torque the bolts, I used a screwdriver to jam the flywheel still while I torqued it:



    Make sure you clean the flywheel with brake cleaner as it has a film on it to protect it before installation. Use the alignment tool to install it:



    Install the pressure plate and torque the bolts. I used a spanner to hold one of the pressure plate bolts while I torqued the rest to hold it still.


  8. #28
    craig8585 is offline I'm so cool, I have my own fan thread :p
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    Good work mate. Are you doing this in your garage? I did my clutch on a 2 pillar ramp and it was difficult enough on there with a transmission jack! Howcome your tunnel's beaten in so badly?

  9. #29
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    Cheers mate. Yep doing this at home on my back and it's a pain in the arse. The transmission tunnel had to be beat because the 6-Speed transmission would not go on last time I changed the clutch.

  10. #30
    craig8585 is offline I'm so cool, I have my own fan thread :p
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    I would not fancy doing what your doing! Fair play for doing it yourself though, it's by far the best way to learn but I bet you say 'never again' afterwards!!

    The box will go on without 'modifying' the tunnel but you have to disconnect the intake + exhaust and remove strengthening bar infront of the engine to allow it to tilt backwards enough to get the box on. You may have to turn the box though 180degrees once the input shaft is located as the starter motor bracket can get in the way.

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