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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Scotland
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    Quote Originally Posted by yewei View Post
    topper, when u said clicking. did u mean tat it makes fast clicking noise? n how does the boost feel like when the clicking noise comes in? bcos mine make a clicking noise too, machenic says it due to the absence of the rubber support for the valve to which it's screw onto between the chassis n valve. or is mine jus simply broken?
    I was told the same but i have replaced it with thicker rubbers and it still does it.

    Boost feels fine, still climbing reaches about 0.3-0.5bar, normally in higher gears with low revs and foot to the boards, cant hear once the revs get up

  2. #42
    yewei Guest
    sounds like we're in the same situation. so, did u decided to replace ur boost valve then? or jus stick with this one?

  3. #43
    Ansch Guest
    Yewei: I think the fast clicking sound you can hear is normal. Mine does that too in Lo mode where I set the start boost to a lower level like 8psi. What I find is when boost goes over 8psi, I can hear a fast clicking sound from the solenoid and I believe it is the solenoid pulsing boost signal to the actuator. My solenoid is mounted on the body and I do have the rubber washer in between.

    No problems with the boost controller so far

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Scotland
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    I replaced the boost soleniod with an Apexi one, it made no difference, so i have two now should one decide to fail.

    Its a very violent clicking it does, a mate own a tuners shop with a RR, we put the car on to try find the clicking, i put my hand on the soleniod, was very violent

  5. #45
    Ansch Guest
    It's been a while. Time to put a few more upgrades on the car.. First up, I've ordered a set of front castor rods. Expect to get them this weekend so I'll try to install them myself and I'll document the process and post here.



    Also coming is a Bosche 040 fuel pump.

  6. #46
    Ansch Guest
    Installed the caster tension rods and the fuel pump last week. Both are quite straight forward to install by myself.

    Review of the caster tension rod:
    This has to be one of the most worthwhile addition to the suspension of a S15 if you like throwing your car into a corner. Front end grip is now phenominal and to maintain the front/ rear balance, I set the pineapples to traction.

    Standard caster setting on a s15 is around 5-6deg. After a wheel alignment, I now am running 9deg left and 8deg right. Steering becomes a little heavier and car tracks very straight now as would be expected by increasing caster. Turn in is now very precise and I find I no longer have to change the steering input mid corner as I used to. Definitely carrying more speed going into the corner where previously it would understeer.

    If anyone interested, I can post of the photo of the installation. It was very simple and only took me a couple of hours to do both sides.

    Highly recommended!
    Last edited by Ansch; 20-09-2007 at 22:46.

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Essex / UK
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    Hiya,

    Thanks for the description of the difference the castor rods made. Any pics i think would really help anyone doing these themselves, maybe we can get a sticky section to host peoples guides up on ?

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Helsinki, Finland
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    Tein front tension/castor rods were one of the first suspension mods I fitted

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Hong Kong
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    mine are still sitting in my room lol

  10. #50
    Ansch Guest
    Spare a couple of hours and put it on Ming.. you'll kick yourself for leaving for so long

    Here is a rough guide for installation.

    The tension rods I have

    The rose joint next to a 17mm socket giving reference to it's size.


    1) jack car up removing both front wheels
    2)The factory caster rod is seen here with the locations of bolts you'd need to undo in red circle

    3) Undo the two nuts at the bottom of the rod at the lower control arm's end and undo the nut and bolt at the end with the rubber bush. Pull the bolt out and remove the factory rod.


    4)The comparison. Measuring the stock rod from the bolt hole at the bush end to the far bolt hole at the other end, I set the new rod to the same length as the stock rod. I did this by setting the rod to the shortest setting and then turning the adjuster to extend to the right length. Tha way the thread on either side would be equal.

    5) Insert the "I have no idea what you'd call this" part that goes in the eyelet of the rose join. This end goes to the tension rod bracket.

    6) Fit the rose join end first. Line it up with the holes and put the bolt through and finger tighten the nut.
    7) Line up the holes with the lower control arm and push one of the bolt through. Maybe require a bit of force pulling the hub towards the front of the car to match the holes on the new rod at the set length.

    8) tighten all the nuts and bolts to the specified torque setting as per the workshop manual. And tighten the lock nuts on the rod as well.
    9) Have a beer and repeat to the other side
    10) Check all the bolts and put wheels back
    11) make sure you take it to get a proper alignment done ASAP.

    enjoy the heavy steering

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