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Stalling issue

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I recently got my car back on the road after over a year and a half lay off. Its nice to finally be driving it again but there are a few small things bugging me that i would like help with please.

If for say I'm approaching a junction at say 30mph in fourth, i start to brake the car down and drop the clutch the revs will drop so much it will stall out. Even if i heel and toe down the gears, get it to ~1000rpm in 2nd gear and drop the clutch it will still happen. This doesn't happen all the time at every junction, but does seem to occur once a journey roughly.
The idle at stand still sits rock solid at 750rpm warm, when i am moving and slowing down then drop the clutch if it doesn't stall it will drop to 500rpm then after a second sit comfortably at 750rpm.
Any quick fix ideas? Things to check?

Forgot to say specification is essentially standard, it does have a generic after market filter and HKS Hi-Power exhaust. The re-circulating blow of valve has been removed by a previous owner and its just running on actuator pressure.

It didn't do this before it was taken off the road, but the only thing I can think that I have changed in the engine department is the spark plugs.

Thanks
 
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Clean your idle control valve, i had the same problem and that fixed it, it's located on the centre of the intake plenum three 10mm bolts i think it has acc valve written on it, carb cleaner will do the trick, just spray it into the valve don't take it appart, also clean your air flow meter,
That should do the trick
 
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Not sure might be ok but couldn't be sure you are going to need carb or sensor cleaner for the air flow meter (very sensiteve) so it's worth buying a can...
 
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CRC or WD40 is regarded as a good electrical contact cleaner just blast the wires and all contacts.

ha wideass
NB. if u use txt spk medle mit chge yr nme 2
 

meddler

It's not easy being a green text speak nazi
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CRC or WD40 is regarded as a good electrical contact cleaner just blast the wires and all contacts.

Don't use WD40. It is a lubricant rather than a cleaner. All you will end up doing is coating the surfaces with a thin coat of oil. The downside of this is it attracts dust and crap like you wouldn't believe!
Don't use WD40. It is a lubricant rather than a cleaner. All you will end up doing is coating the surfaces with a thin coat of oil. The downside of this is it attracts dust and crap like you wouldn't believe!

spoonman said:
ha wideass
NB. if u use txt spk medle mit chge yr nme 2
Or he might ban your arse!! ;) Before you ask, yes I have a personal vendetta against text speak! Just read my signature.
 
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Hey I have the same problem too. would you let me know if cleaning the idle valve solved your problem?
Becasue i use an aftermarket intake plenum, the idle valve is not so accessible anymore.

I tried to solve it with tuning, raised the idle to 950 - 1050, it now seldom stores, but it still drops to 500, but most of the time would come back up.
I reflected this problem to my garage, and was told something to do with blow off, adjusting the spring could help.

Most of the time now, the stalling would occur only after hard driving.

Thanks, pls let me know if the cleaning the idle valve solved your problem.
cheers
 
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I just tried it with tuning the idle valve, when I disconnected the aac the engine idle dropped so low it almost stalled, I adjusted the screw out and got it idleing naturally at about 750 - 800 and reconected the aac. Took it for a little drive and was unable to make it stall, I managed to make it drop to 500 once out of multiple attempts provoking it but it didn't stall. The car isn't used for commuting everyday, so I will give it a few more drives, say a week or two, if its still problamatic (is that a word?) I will report back with progress.
 
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Don't use WD40. It is a lubricant rather than a cleaner. All you will end up doing is coating the surfaces with a thin coat of oil. The downside of this is it attracts dust and crap like you wouldn't believe!



Or he might ban your arse!! ;) Before you ask, yes I have a personal vendetta against text speak! Just read my signature.
cheers for that didnt know there was really any difference between CRC and WD40,
 
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Have you sorted this yet? I only ask as when I ran my car with no dump valve (pigen mod) I had a very similar thing. Just used to cut out when approching junctions looking back it was f**king bad, rolling up to the foutune of war round about on the A127 in the dark, bam! stall, no lights or power steering, trying to restart as i rolled round the round aboout in the rush hour. Never again. re plummed the standard re-circ in and it has been fine ever since.
 
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I run a wastegate, atmospheric dump valve and screamer. Stalls occasionally still. I am banging on cleaning the idle valve.
 

S15AK

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Hi Guys,

this problem has started with me as well now, when I come to a stand still it will stall sometimes. I've cleaned the idle control valve and that hasn't made a difference. I do plan on removing my BOV and just running without one, so that could resolve it, but anyone else got any idea's please?

Could it be my MAF? would rather not go cleaning that as they can break...

Cheers
 
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Got this fixed recently. New iacv, new tps, okada ignition coils. I think iacv and tps helped. Idle raised to around 1020-1080. Tps - need to access the ecu and adjust to 0volts after installation.
Also understand that I had a water temp reading issue. Apparently fcon temp and defi temp show different readings. Causing the ecu to be confused and hence the stalling. Probably tuner looked at the defi when tuning. Okadas seem to give the car more life. Supposed to reduce det but my car had already low det so overall not so useful for me.
 
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Is this not more likely to be lambda sensor related as i get a fluctuating idle which results in stalling occasionally and i spoke to Jez at horsham and he tested the o2 sensor and that was knackered. I've just ordered a new one so if that works I'll let you know!! :)
 
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