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Wanted: brake fluid change guide

Yakozan

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Looking for a brake fluid change guide.
i have never changed brake fluid before and a guide would make me feel so much better :)
Think I've read somewhere that I'm not supposed to empty the fluid completely :confused:

Links or guide appreciated :thumbs:
 

Nicely

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Trying to remember how mine were done. I think an additional feed reservoir was attached to the standard reservoir to keep it topped-up. Then some pump or other was attached to each brake nipple and fluid was sucked through until new fluid drained. This was repeated for each corner (RLH, RRH, FRH, FLH). Was a garage setup, but I was there as it was done.
 

Yakozan

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Nicely said:
Trying to remember how mine were done. I think an additional feed reservoir was attached to the standard reservoir to keep it topped-up. Then some pump or other was attached to each brake nipple and fluid was sucked through until new fluid drained. This was repeated for each corner (RLH, RRH, FRH, FLH). Was a garage setup, but I was there as it was done.
I've seen those pump, thingies. Cost abit of money though.
Will go out and buy the regular "hose with attached bottle" jobie tomorrow and have a go at it.

If I get it right, I just put the hose on the bleed nipple and loosen it. Then pump the brake and top up fluid so air doesn't get into the system.
When I see the oil in the bottle change to the new oil, I tighten the bleed valve and head for the next brake caliper.

Hmmm. Might bring a friend with me as this seems to be a 2 man job unless getting one of those pump thingies :)
 

Nicely

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There's some complication over using the pump things at the reservoir when there's ABS involved. Can't remember what has to be done to bypass it.

Probably easier to use the two person method. Drain extra fluid after you see the change come through.
 
A

Ansch

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You're in luck... I just did my brake fluid myself over the weekend :D Unfortunately, I didn't take any photo of the steps, but I think you got the general idea already. I'll outline my steps.

1) Loosen wheel nuts, jack up car on all 4 corners and take wheels off (I suppose you can do one corner at a time if you don't have jack stands but it's much easier and faster if you do)
2) First I want to get rid of the old fluid in the reservoir. To do that, I have a large syringe (about 1" and a bit in diameter). I attached a small rubber of hose at the tip of the syringe (thin enough to get into the gaps in the reservoir and about 2-3" long). Get into all the partition of the reservoir and suck al the old fluid out.
3) #2 above is the quick and lazy way. I've seen it done before where the complete plastic part of the reservoir is pop'd off the master cylinder. Washed, dried and put back on. Bit too messy for me.
4) Now that the reservoir is empty (99.99% anyway). Fill it back up with the new fluid. Usual care with brake fluid on your paint work, you all know that right?
5) Now, as nicely said, start with the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder. Left rear. I have a simple hose in a bottle setup.

***I must say now, I did this on my own and I would not recommend the pumping on the brake peddle method because I've had issues with master cylinder seals in the past. Imagine this, in normal operation of your brakes, the master cylinder only travels a small distance. All of a sudden, the cylinder is used in it's full travel and if there are any junk just behind the plunger in the master cylinder, it may score the rubber seals and it's not a good thing when that happens. Hope this make sense.***

6) Anyway, let gravity do the work for you. This is what I did next: Loosen the bleed nipple a bit with a socket because it get's quite hard to undo sometimes. Finger tightens it back. Put the hose on the end of the nipple. Slowly unscrew the nipple until you see the fluid coming out of the hose. It helps when my hose is clear.
7) And basically, that's it. Just be patient and wait till the new fluid comes out. Keep the reservoir topped up. When you think the fluid coming out is the same colour as the new stuff, tighten the nipple, remove the hose, and tighten the nipple enough with a socket.
8) Repeat, step 6 and 7 for each of the subsequent wheels. I.e. rear right, front left, front right. Note that the closer you are to the master cylinder, the less time it would need for all the old fluid to drain out.
9) Once everything is done, make sure all the bleed nipples are tighten. Put the wheels back on, tighten the wheel nuts. Drop the car. Get in and give the brake a few pumps to get the pressure up. Top up the reservoir to the MAX mark and close the lid.

10) That's it!! Turn the car on and pump the brake to make sure you have a good peddle. Got for a drive and be careful to test your brake first at low speed.
 

Yakozan

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Tanks Ansch :thumbs:

Just one question.

How long did it take to do this without pumping the brake-pedal (just the bledding part, not jacking car up etc.)?
 
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Ansch

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The bleeding part didn't take that long. I let the rear left bleed the longest probably about 10-15minutes. The subsequent calipers took less and less time. Just make sure the fluid is dripping out the hose and has not stopped moving.

I rekon all up it only took me a couple of hours. I gave the wheels a good scrub while waiting for the fluid to drain :) The most important thing is to keep the reservoir topped up while bleeding. I think it's a law of physics that the more fluid you have in there the faster it will bleed at the other end because of the pressure.
 
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Derek

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ha ha, This was my pastime for last weekend also. I did exactly the same as Ansch. Except mine was easier prob because i was changing hoses aswell for the Briaided ones.. I had to re do the bleeding process tho cos after 1st time the brake's felt spongee. I'd say the Fluid in the Master cyclinder went low and air got in. I now have 315 discs new pads front and rear, new lines and dot 5.1. Brakes feel a lot better.. Oh and i painted my calipers red..
 

Yakozan

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Great guys :thumbs:
Alot of my friends are still working (I'm on a 4 week vacation :cool: ) So this will be easier. :thumbs:
 
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the gravity drain? I'd think you'd need to apply pedal pressure to force any air out of the system.

You can buy a 1 way valve brake bleeding system for about 19NZD - approx 7 pounds. This will stop fluid travelling back up into the system as you release the pedal. It's basically a clear tube with a valve attached on the end.
 

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Its very easy :nod: If pressing the peddle you will need a friend to help, but if using a one-man-bleeding-system, you wont.

Bleed them as described above, my rear fluid came flying out, but the front dripped out, was very strange, the peddle would go to the floor with no resistance at all, when left for 10mins the brakes did get harder, untill one more depress, then it was back to soft again :confused: Once left over night and tried the next morning they were stiff again, the brakes are now fine :thumbs:
 
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Topper said:
Its very easy :nod: If pressing the peddle you will need a friend to help, but if using a one-man-bleeding-system, you wont.

Bleed them as described above, my rear fluid came flying out, but the front dripped out, was very strange, the peddle would go to the floor with no resistance at all, when left for 10mins the brakes did get harder, untill one more depress, then it was back to soft again :confused: Once left over night and tried the next morning they were stiff again, the brakes are now fine :thumbs:
weird :confused: When I did mine (using the one man system), the brake pedal was hard (pressing by hand). I'd press hard 7-8 times, then check the bottle. The fluid came out alright - no problems. You sohuld be able to bleed the whole system in about half an hour.
 
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khoala

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there is a tech articele in ns.com
done on an s14 thuogh (no difference)
with pictorials and step by step as well...i've got a print out of it just incase (never used it though, even when i changed my brake lines
 

S15_Spec_R

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Bleed order and amount of fluid

Hi, I just installed a big brake kit and new pads on the rear and bled each corner. Does anyone know if you have to bleed the corners in an order, does the reservoir cap have to be on unless topping up, what is the handbrake situation (up/down). I have more travel on the handbrake lever now and the pads are thicker as they are new.

Cheers, Keith
 

Yakozan

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You start with the corner furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closer.

rear left, rear right, front left and last front right.
There is a adjustment screw behind the handbrake lever. Don't know exactly where as I haven't felt the urge to adjust my handbrake.
 

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You start with the corner furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way closer.

rear left, rear right, front left and last front right.
There is a adjustment screw behind the handbrake lever. Don't know exactly where as I haven't felt the urge to adjust my handbrake.
Thanks, I shall start with that order. The h brake is weird as before I renewed the rear pads the h brake travel was 3 clicks, now with thicker pads it travels 8+ clicks.

Also does bleeding need any further input for the ABS?

Ta, K
 
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gunner93

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A short hose would be best for gravity drain. A little pedal pressure will be good just before you lock tight the bleed nipple to ensure no air gets sucked into the caliper.
 
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Thanks, I shall start with that order. The h brake is weird as before I renewed the rear pads the h brake travel was 3 clicks, now with thicker pads it travels 8+ clicks.

Also does bleeding need any further input for the ABS?

Ta, K
The hand brake should be self adjusting. Put your foot on the pedal brake and yank the hand brake, this will take up the slack. With new pads in, adjusting the hand brake screw should be unecessary.

Don't worry about flushing the ABS system. Just bleed the blakes as per normal. The fluid in the ABS system will mix with the rest once the ABS is engaged. Over time, this fluid will change by default.
 
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