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mazworx drive shaft broken!

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See at the end of the day they might of never had one brake, granted, but they have one thats f*cking broke now so they should get their finger out and sort it! no excuses its broke due to a weekness either from shipping, when it was getting made, or driver error...end of the day its still bloody broke lol
if I spent that amount of money then a month or so later it broke then was told I had to buy another one I would rather pay for a plane ticket over there at hit the guy with it! :wack:
 
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Reaction from www.shaftmasters.com to my problem:


Marco,
Please see the attached sheet for failure analysis. Lower right hand corner of first page shows your failure condition. "Shock load" could be wheel hop or spinning tires and then catching dry roadway. Other than that, your driveshaft appears to be built with 1310 series "greasable" ujoints not 1350 series. The main problem is the greasable part. We never build high performance aluminum shafts with greasable ujoints. We always use solid, non-greasable, high performance ujoints in all of our aluminum shafts. We have sold literally 1000's of Nissan aluminum shafts and we have never had a failure. Our Nissan shafts are built with 1310 series solid ujoints because the trans yoke and rear flange are only available in 1310 series. Whoever told you that your shaft has 1350 series ujoints is incorrect.
Thanks, David
.

says enough i think ? :)
 
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so not only are they not giving you a full refund they are misleading people in the information of their parts which I am sure it illegal?
 
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Okey guys, have some good news!!


Mazworx zegt:
lol ok man....dont worry about it
we will fix it

after a long conversation on MSN we made a deal! they fix me a new one with the stronger U-Joints. I made the deal if i brake that one to, i will pay for it (and i keep my words ;) )

So there not that bad i meybe let come out, i just putted my experience on internet on that moment!

Keep you guys informed when i have the new one here!
Thnx for the responses :)



 

LuPix_S15

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Wow can't believe I've only just read this... I think Mazworx need to tread very carefully in a market and climate that's been struggling globally. Ok MSN isn't the best place to show peoples' emotions and how conversations might actually be like when done face to face but they do seem to take a negative stance when trying to sort out their customers and you were in no way rude or 'ranting' when you detailed your problems initially (nor later on in fact) :wack:

I was 100% going to purchase the same top mount turbo kit from them like yours Marco - the GT3876R but with the 0.63 smaller AR... now I'm really not sure. I get the impression that if anything was to go wrong like the mani cracking or turbo failing then I'll get the reply 'we've sold hundreds of kits and nothing's ever come back...' I don't think I could take that style of after sales service!!


And driver error?? I'm forever drifting and clutch kicking giving the box and prop serious amounts of abuse but I've never heard of fellow drifters breaking S14/15 props?! It's a shame just as I've found a retailer recommended by others they are turning out to be not how I thought to be... their sales replies and posts seem billiant on SXOC but your recent dealings with them puts them in a different light :( And asking you to chop a part and get it welded might as well interpret as 'go fix the problem with someone else... we know it'll still be weak or even weaker than before but if it breaks blame the welder' haha taking the piss!!!!
 
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tinto

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Im glad to hear they are sorting it for you marco.
Out of curiosity, what tyres are you running, and what torque are you putting out (and at what rpm)?
 

meddler

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I have seen plenty of crazy stuff in cars and have never seen a prop shaft break like that. If they say the shaft was out of balance, wouldn't it be their fault? They should have balanced it. As for the axle hop excuse, as Lupix has said, there are plenty of cars out there drifting / dragging with standard tailshaft that don't have a problem. I think it is pretty poor customer service on their part. I am sure that I would be getting a little more than upset if they didn't sort it out.
 

_Wing_

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Reaction from www.shaftmasters.com to my problem:


Marco,
Please see the attached sheet for failure analysis. Lower right hand corner of first page shows your failure condition. "Shock load" could be wheel hop or spinning tires and then catching dry roadway. Other than that, your driveshaft appears to be built with 1310 series "greasable" ujoints not 1350 series. The main problem is the greasable part. We never build high performance aluminum shafts with greasable ujoints. We always use solid, non-greasable, high performance ujoints in all of our aluminum shafts. We have sold literally 1000's of Nissan aluminum shafts and we have never had a failure. Our Nissan shafts are built with 1310 series solid ujoints because the trans yoke and rear flange are only available in 1310 series. Whoever told you that your shaft has 1350 series ujoints is incorrect.
Thanks, David
.

says enough i think ? :)

I work at ALPHA OMEGA Parts and Services which deals with alot of Nissan/Silvia driveline parts including the tailshaft/driveshaft. Part of my work is research and development and testing so here's a third opinion on the matter.

A few points...

  • 2.5" is way undersized, are you sure it's only 2.5" as it looks like it's thicker to me at about 3"?
  • I can confirm that there is no 1350 rated components that will work in a Silvia, but there is something over 1310... "1330"... though 1330 is not very common it's what we use as it's the strongest rated components bar none.
  • the above quote talks about "shock load": this can cause EXTREME and MASSIVE spikes in forces onto all driveline parts including the diff, tailshaft/driveshaft, and gearbox...
  • ...One part will eventually break be it the axles on the diff (I saw one just yesterday), the tailshaft/driveshaft twisting and/or breaking (I see that often), and the gearbox output shaft twisting and eventually snapping off (I have some gearboxes here at work just like that) and also the usual gear teeth getting stripped off (which I also have at work)... whichever part is the weakest link will break first. In this case it was the unijoint.
Shock load like wheel hop and sudden grip up will cause much more stress than a 400hp or 800hp motor can cause; just imagine a jack hammer smashing away at your driveline. And although on this particular day you weren't driving hard it's already been weakened to the point that it will just fail the next time you drive it.

I've had customers tell me that they didn't do anything on the faithful day their gearbox gave way, but just rolling onto the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear and BANG, there goes the gears.



As a side note, I would highly highly recommend a 2-piece tailshaft. There's actually a blog post on the website that explains it better and in more detail with some pics as well: http://www.ao-ps.com

Hope that helps :)
 
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Wow,I have only just read through this thread,glad they are sorting this for you but I am sure this stance will have lost them a few customers in the process,makes you wonder what their thinking was ,surely they would have been better off at least sayin they would ship the part back so they could do tests on it to find out exactly who was to blame,and either way I think the cost of a swapping a shaft (even if they were not at fault) greatly outweighs the business you can lose from choosing the stance they did.as I said I a glad its all being sorted for you,I would never expect to buy a "performance "part for my car to then find out it couldn't take the same abuse a standard part would take,and that I would have to replace it after 1 month!! Madness,hope its ok when you get it back mate! Good luck!
 
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