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Bad Idle & Surges under load ( hardly any power ) Any Ideas??

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Yeah the way it works is that when you adjust one it changes the range for the other as well. What is your base timing set at? The base TPS voltage should be .45V and WOT 4.5-5V so if you can't get that range then I suggest replacing it to eliminate a problem. I don't think they are that expensive and can be ahd in a scrappy for next to nothing. Also, if you can borrow a freind's MAF and swap it to see if it makes a difference to eliminate that as well, seeing that the car remains under 3000rpm sounds MAF related like it is in limp mode when the MAF is unplugged. Just try things to eliminate stuff and also looks for any broken vacuum lines and boost lines even though you may have already, both on the intake and on the intercooler setup.
Over the past week i have been able to get the car to rev over 3000rpm since i put a dose of injector cleaner in the tank, which is why i replaced the fuel pump and am looking at getting the injectors cleaner properly, i have already replaced the air flow meter and that did not change anything either. If you think 3.9v is too low for WOT throttle i will get a replacement just to make sure, and my car is just a SR20DE, thanks for all your help anyway

I have managed to get my car top a point where it surges under load only when cold, once at running temp is runs alot smoother but still have hardly any power, at 100kph you can put it into 3rd and floor it, it wont speed up just rev to 5000rm.
 
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Was anything at all tampered with? Sounds like when my primera timing chain skipped a tooth on the cam gear, power was lost.
 
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Not to my knowledge, car had done 60ks when imported from japan i brought it when it had done 100 so im not sure, but it does not look like the previous owners did anything to the engine at all
 
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Finally fixed my car,

Problem was the type of airfilter, after speaking to Tuning & Performance ( hamilton NZ ) who have built a couple of 500hp + silvias, the guy there has come across this a few times with them due to the fact that the MAF is right after the filter,

Tuning & Performance guy
"Side entry pod filters are NEVER to be used on silvias" (or WRX) after a short period of time the turbulence caused by side entry air starts to wreak havoc with the MAF and causes the car to run lean.

Good old mushroom filters are recommended as the best for our type of cars.

Also i got advised never to use a apexi air filter. As they are the main culprit which is what i had in my car.

I hope this helps someone else as well
 
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Good to hear. On another note I have has an Apexi for quite some time and had no problems. Not sure if you being N/A makes a difference.
 
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Good to hear. On another note I have has an Apexi for quite some time and had no problems. Not sure if you being N/A makes a difference.
discovered something interesting, if the sensor is on the top it runs lean and if its near the bottom it runs alright, which makes sense from what the guy told me, but im starting to think it had stuff all to do with the type of filter......... more just the fact the apexi flowed most of the air around the other side of the intake pipe so only a little was moving past the sensor?/??

are well at least i know whats wrong now

Trini how do you duct the air onto your filter?

ps the guy who advised my on my car build this

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Nissan/auction-259122668.htm
 
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I had no special ducting, but I see people with the billion ducting running from the lower bumper meshing. Remember you are non-turbo so your filter is on the other side of the car. Mine on passenger side and yours on the driver side, the passenger side has a hole already cut for the side mount intercooler so I can route the ducting from there to the engine bay unlike the driver side.
 
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DE airfilter is on passenger side, year it was a bit frustration trying about 10 dif things, but at least i made a few other things better in the process
 
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