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Leaking - Help!

Darren_S15

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Yes, just the main turbo to mani gasket. If you can wait a week or so, you can get all the gaskets from Japan for at least half the UK price (via Perfectrun). Don't forget you need plate locks for the turbo nuts and copper/brass nuts to replace all the existing nuts. You will note that the PN on the gasket I showed is different to the one you have listed...
Does this mean that my part numbers are wrong?

What are plate locks? :eek:

Do you happen to know the p/n and how many copper/brass nuts I will need to get?

Sorry for all the questions, Id really like to get all this done this weekend if possible :|

I need a shopping list of all the bits Im going to need ideally.

Ive ordered the braided oil and coolant lines plus the banjo nuts and washers already from hosesolutions
 

Nicely

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OK, you're going to have to go to Nissan GB if you want to do it this weekend.

14401-69F28- TURBOCHARGER GASKET KIT (will be cheaper than the individual gaskets)
14036-75F00- GASKET - EXHAUST MANIFOLD
2x 14495-17F00- PLATE LOCK

If you're taking everything off, you'd be best doing the main mani gasket too. Plate locks sit under the turbo/mani nuts and have little tabs which you fold up to lock the nuts in place and stop them turning. You'll need to get the copper nuts from a nuts and bolts man/motor factors/any decent independent garage.

Note that the oil outlet gasket in that kit won't fit as the kit is for the S14 and that gasket is slightly different on the S15/T28BB.

Oh, and the gasket kit was £30 and a plate lock for £1.65 from Perfectrun in 2006...
 

Darren_S15

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Thanks a lot Nicley.

Ive emailed Perfect Run to see how much that all is and how quickly they can get it to me.

Im going to give Nissan UK a ring and ask the same.

If its going to be a big saving I might wait as I can do my coilovers this weekend instead while the car cant move.

Do you happen to know how many of the copper nuts I will need or there thread size?

Or is my best bet to take one off and take that with me?
 

Nicely

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PR MIGHT be able to get it to you this week. More likely next though. Nissan should be next day. No idea on the thread size. Same as every other 10mm nut on the car though :)
 

Darren_S15

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Cheers mate.

I owe you a beer at JAE :)

Thanks to everyone else too.

Ill let you know the prices once I have them as Im sure this might be of use to someone in the furture.

I know perfect run will be cheaper but its a case of money over time :nod:
 

Darren_S15

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Just incase anyone else is thinking of doing this.

For the three parts Nicley mentioned above, the turbo gasket kit, exhaust manifold kit and 2 x plate locks it comes to:

Nissan UK: £146
Perfect Run (via Japan): £50

Think Im going to wait a week or so :nod:

None of the prices about include P&P.
 
J

jhinchy

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Wouldn't have if the one of the solid pipes had cracked. That's usually what happens.

Your right, i had forgotten that the pipe had cracked. I was able to repair it though(cheapskate).
Braided hoses make it an awful lot easier to re-install the turbo onto the car:thumbs:
 

Darren_S15

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Nicley,

In one of your earlier posts you say that it is possible to replace the post turbo coolant hose without removing the turbo.

I noticed from looking at the hose last night that it appears to be clipped to the block with a metal holder.

Im not sure how the standard manifold is but the bolt that hold this clip to the block is hidden behind my manifold.

Will this not be possible if I cannot get to the bolt for the metal clip thing?

I hope that makes some sence to you? :confused:

Thanks.
 

Nicely

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Can't say with the standard mani. I could get the pipework off when I had a tubular fitted though. Its one of those jobs you have to do from above and below the engine.
 

Darren_S15

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OK I have some really simple questions that I just want to confirm before I order some more bits for this job:

Can anyone confirm how many nuts are on the manifold and turbo?

From FAST it looks like there are 6 on the turbo and 8 on the exhaust manifold?

Should I also replace the studs on the turbo or manifold? (if so does anyone know how many I will need, again looks like 8 (manifold) and 6 (turbo)?)

Do I need any gasket seal for any of the turbo gaskets or do I just use them dry?

Should I use locktight or something on the nuts?

Anything else I should consider/watch when I take off and replace the turbo...

Thanks :D
 

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Not including any mani cover bolts, there are 8 manifold nuts and 4 turbo-manifold nuts.

You need to be soaking the mani nuts in WD40 the night before starting the job (assuming you aren't driving it :p ). You don't need to replace the mani studs. If you don't soak then, you might sheer one though... The turbo studs shouldn't need replacing.

As mentioned previously, copper or brass nuts will pretty much guarantee the won't come loose (quite common). When bending the locking plate tabs onto the nuts, use a screwdriver and hammer to tap the tabs RIGHT in tight against the nuts.

Gasket seal and locktight is pretty useless, as they will burn off within five minutes of you starting the engine... :p Wet and dry the mating surfaces of the turbo and mani and fit dry with the gasket.
 

Darren_S15

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Thanks Nicley, what would this forum do without you :thumbs:

The four nuts for the turbo will be for the mani to turbo section I assume.

Does the turbo to downpipe not have any nuts as I was going to replace this gasket while it was all off?

Other than taking off the mainfold nuts and taking one somewhere is there anyway I can find out the thread of the mani nuts.

Ive looked in both FAST and the user manuals and had no luck :(

Also when buying new nuts do they have to be 'specical' in anyway or just brass or copper nuts of the same size?

Sorry for all the questions, this is the fist time Ive had to take these kind of bits off a car :eek:
 

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Yes, there are 5 turbo elbow nuts. You should replace these with the same copper or brass nuts. Its quite possible these studs will come loose. Copper/brass nuts are the same are ordinary nuts except that the inside of them is slightly oval. Due to the softness of the metal, this makes them grip like buggery. They wont work loose. You have to be careful to do them tight, but not TOO tight other wise you'll be rounding the corners.

There's a cracking guide to doing this job on SXOC if you want to check it. It in the S14 Useful Threads sticky.

No idea on the thread size, sorry :(
 

Darren_S15

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Well I think I found my problem, no wonder it was leaking:






On another note.

Im trying to put my new braided hoses back on but I cannot get the longer of the two coolant lines to go on.

Has anyone else has a problem with this?

Im trying to put it back on so it goes the same way as the original hose did.

But the gap in which it has to go is not big enough as the lock plate still has to fit in the gap yet.

Im lost what I can do as it will not physically all fit unless I bend the end of the hose (really dont want to do this).

I then decided that if I remove the bolt holding on the bracket in the second of my pictures it might fit, which it did, but sadly the hole goes through the housing.

Really stuck, anyone know what I can do... ... ... :annoyed: ??? ???



 
P

Paddy

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Try swapping the long and the short hoses... I think i did that the first time and it worked.

you'll know after a quick test fit if thats the trick. are your hoses from hose solutions?

Do you have any spare 10mm nuts for the mani to tubby?
 

Darren_S15

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Try swapping the long and the short hoses... I think i did that the first time and it worked.

you'll know after a quick test fit if thats the trick. are your hoses from hose solutions?

Do you have any spare 10mm nuts for the mani to tubby?
Surely the small hose wont reach or the longer hose would not be so long?

Or do you mean have the coolant going the other way around the turbo, in which case would this actually be OK?

Ive got 9 old nuts from the manifold to turbo but Ive used all my new ones Im affraid.
 
P

Paddy

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IIRC i put the longer hose on the turbo on the side nearest the engine with the hose pointing down (when turbo in place), i was able to get the hose to reach around the engine mount and fit to the block.

The shorter one fitted further from the block and also pointing down. The hoses i got from hose solutions were long enough to reach both points.

You can test fit quite easily.

Ultimately i dont think it really matters which direction the coolant flows as there is a bit of water pressure behind it.

About those extra 10mm bolts. a suggestion i have for them is to put them on top of the nuts you have already fitted. there should be enough tread to get two bolts onto the manifold to turbo studs. Its and extra measure to stop them coming loose and melting your gasket.
 
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Darren_S15

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Thanks guys.

I fitted the hose the wrong way around, and then offered it up to the block to make sure it all fitted and it was all good.

Its all back together now :nod:

Just ran the car for about 15 mins and then took the car around the block and it all seems to be fine so far.

A few pics I took along the way:

















 
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