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Thread: Two Level Boost

  1. #31
    KSW Guest
    Thanks Nicely. that is interesting. ill end up taking my car to a good tuner over the next week or two so ill see what he can find.

  2. #32
    KSW Guest
    Got my car back from the tuner today + problem solved he thinks it was probably just an aftermarket manifold i put on making it boost quicker. he adjusted it on the dyno and it now only spikes to 1.1 when set at 1 bar(with no ebc). it wasnt detonating when going to 1.3-1.4 anyway so its all good.
    have you changed anything since you last tuned yours Nicely?

  3. #33
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    The thing is, that this is something the boost controller should be containing.

    I've narrowed it down to the same issue you mention (as I said on ns.com). I've got a tubular mani, dump pipe (elbow), 3 inch front pipe, decat, and 3 inch system. The spool up causing the spiking is happening so quick that the controller can't react fast enough. This is why I want to try the relief valve. If this works as mentioned in Autospeed, it should stop the spiking altogether.

  4. #34
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    Any news on this?

    I have encountered a problem which seems to be the same.

    I run with the boost of the stock actuator. The Solenoid has been removed.
    I get steady boost of 4.5Bar when going full throttle at low revs.
    When going high-rev pedal to the metal, I get 0.82Bar at the most where my boost controller warning goes in and beeps.

    I've got the dual solenoid Blitz Spec-R in off mode at the time as I havn't got time to set it up yet.
    Nissan GTR -09 Now with Cobb accessport stage 2

  5. #35
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    I get no problem at that level of boost. Its only around 1.05 bar that it goes nuts.

    To get to the bottom of this once and for all, I bought a specific flow control valve (like a precise manual boost controller which allows NO spiking). I ran it in parallel with the SBC iD3. The purpose of this was to allow the actuator to get just enough warning of the boost pressure to keep it under control and consistent (I suspected that the turbo was spooling so quickly, due to improved flow, that the controller couldn't react quick enough).

    Unfortunately, this made no difference I have one final test to perform: running solely from the control valve, with the controller off but reading boost. I'm not optimistic....

    Its all pointing firmly at it being a turbo issue, probably a bit tired. Not a huge problem, as I have a 3.5k mile BB turbo sat under my voluminous desk Just have to muster the motivation to remove the tubular manifold, as I know its going to be a bastard job due to the clearance...

    BTW, if anyone wants a very cheap, rock solid manual boost controller, I have a spare. I got two... These are better (and cheaper) than the Apex 'Bren Devices'.

  6. #36
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    OK. I'l see how the boost react to the Boost controller.
    But I find it strange that the car boost that high when I have the blitz unit in Off mode and the solenoid valve removed.

    Could it be the stock BOV acting as a boost valve
    Nissan GTR -09 Now with Cobb accessport stage 2

  7. #37
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    Well, that is essentially what happen on mine, just at higher boost. And it doesn't do it until peak power in 5th/6th.

    It scares the ****e out of the controller when its in self-learn mode. It allows the spike twice, then won't boost over 1 bar... And that's with it set to 1.1 bar...

  8. #38
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    Remember this one?

    Finally fitted the spare turbo at the weekend. Right bastard job.

    One front pipe nut wouldn't come undone (no clearance for a socket between the nut and pipe and no clearance to use a spanner). Had to undo the elbow/dump pipe.

    Discovered why I was losing oil. Oil feed line had cracked (only one I hadn't yet replaced with a braided hose). Let this be a warning to anyone considering saving a little bit of money by not replacing the hard pipes. I've had a water feed AND oil feed crack now. Plus the oil feed cracked on my first S15.

    The reason it cracked was because a couple of mani nuts had worked loose and the mani was vibrating and starting to leak. One of the turbo/mani nut had come off completely too This was down to the guy who replaced fitted the mani and change the gaskets last year failing to lock the nuts with the tabs on the plate lock So, the turbo gasket was also starting to leak and the turbo vibrate. All this movement caused the pipe to crack. However, everything else was casuing the weird noises I've been getting.

    Oh, and the turbo central spindle needed rotating from the S13 position to the S14/15 position...AND the air intake bolt cores had to be transferred

    All OK now though Still testing the boost. The spool up is more controlled. I've got the controller up higher than I ever could before. However, it seems reluctant to boost over 1 bar at the mo.

    What settings do people have their Profecs or SBCs set to boost and gain-wise?

  9. #39
    kieran Guest
    Oh, and the turbo central spindle needed rotating from the S13 position to the S14/15 position...AND the air intake bolt cores had to be transferred

    ? i dont get it nicely? what is adjustable? if you been getting leaking from the fanimold i would think this would create boost problems, sounds like you may have solved ya issues though nice one

    iirc you have a after market manifold? you had any problems? i had one and it was dead within 2 months there wasnt a pipe that hadnt cracked? and it had the support bracket......also cracked

    But i dont appear to have a down pipe to gear box brace like the s14? does the s15 have this?[/quote]

  10. #40
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    None of those problems would have caused the spiking I had been experiencing. There was no problem with the manifold nor any of the gaskets. The spiking was down to play in the turbo, I expect. There was certainly noticeably more play in the old turbo than the new one. This **hopefully** was causing the uncontrollable spooling.

    When you buy a new turbo, it will just been put together in the factory and that's it. The water and oil inlets/outlets could be pointing in any direction in relation to the turbo housing mounting points. Eg. when the turbo is on the block, the oil return could be too close to the block. What needs to be done is all the bolts on the INSIDE edges of both the hot and cold sides of the turbo (so, facing the middle of the turbo) have to be undone and both housings turned equally until it matches the existing turbo alignment. When this is done, the bolts are replaced. Its something you would never encounter unless you replaced the turbo.

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