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Okay some problems with my clutch. Over the last three weeks my ACT POS clutch said bye bye, clutch flywheel and pressure plate mated somehow and could not come apart ultimately not letting me select a gear once I came out of first, don't ask how. Anyway, I wanted to be up and runnig quickly so I got an Exedy Street and Strip Clutch disc (sprung as well) and used my stock flywheel and pressure plate I had at home. I just cleaned them up and put on everything, no problem. Initially the clutch would not engage, no gear so I adjusted the clutch pedal and sure enough I was able to engage and everything was all good. After about a week of driving I found that the engagement level on the clutch pedal droppedto right where I wanted it, so I thought okay maybe as the clutch began to break in it did that. Then last night when I go for a spin I find myself having to press the clutch pedal to the floor to put it in first and on shifting had to do the same thing to change gear. With the install I did not touch the clutch line or anything, I just mved it aside.

Today when I start and go to work the clutch seems better engaging higher and as I drive around I find the engagement getting better, what gives. Are my cylinder seals going and losing pressure, or do I need to change my clutch fluid and rebleed? Anyone encounter a similar problem?
 

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Check the length of your slave cylinder piston. When I fitted all my Nismo stuff, the difference in thicknesses meant the piston couldn't push the fork far enough to engage. The garage fitting it initially rechecked the fitment of everything, bled, rebled and rechecked, but to no avail. Eventually they realised the problem, extended the piston and it was fine. I've heard of other people having the same problem
 
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How did they go about extending the piston? Is this the slave cylinder they extended and did they make an adapter to shift the slave cyliner closer to the fork to make the engagement closer? Is it at all possible to get a pic?
 

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I didn't actually see it and its very difficult for me to check underneath during the week, but I have a sneaking suspicion they may have welded a small piece on the end of the existing piston rod.

Its crazy that it didn't reach, as I upgrade to the bigger Nismo slave cylinder :rolleyes:
 
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Hmmm, I was wondering if I could fabricate an adapter that would shift the piston closer to the fork much like what would be done on cable gearboxes on the FWD SRs to shift the bracket back to allow for a tighter fit and more adjustment.
 
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Okay this morning I started the car and for nothing it would go in gear, reverse or first. I finally got it to go in third and then after the engine finally got warm enough it grated into reverse. The engagement has dropped way down. It happened yesterday too. It seems in the night the engagement drops way down when the car is cold. Any suggestions. During the day the engagement is right back where it use to be but in the morning I have to press the pedal to the floor and it still does not engage. Any thing else to check or should I bleed the clutch? I never touched the clutch setup when changing the clutch but I did find with the ACT setup form time to time that the pedal would drop if I kept my foot on the clutch pedal in traffic and the engagement would drop to the ground. Once I came off the pedal entirly the engagement would return to where it used to be. Your thoughts people would help a lot. Now I have a stock pressure plate and flywheel and an Exedy street and strip disc.
 

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Your clutch master or slave aren't on their way out, are they?

You could try bleeding, but you might be better getting a braided clutch line first. The damper makes bleeding a right PITA.
 
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How would I know if the clutch master or slave are on the way out, anyway to check? Yeah I am thinking to get a braided clutch line same time and change the cylinder seals.
 

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Well, the symptoms are what you've got. How to test it, I'm not quite sure. Checking up on it, its more likely to be the slave. Might be worth chucking on the big Nismo slave when you do you're clutch line and see if that sorts it. And while you're there, fit the Nismo pivot too :) If not, try the master seals.
 
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Was thinking,could it be the fact that I used my old pressure plate with the new clutch? I was thinking since it will lose so much engagement overnight when the car cools down I should jack up the car in the mrining and check the fork to see if it engages when the clutch pedal is pressed, if not then what would that say bad pressure plate or bad master cylinder seals? Once it gets warm the clutch returns to stock operation. Engagment goes to **** when morning comes.
 
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This monring I had to leave the car to warm up for about 15 minutes and the engagement was alright. This weekend I will have to sort this out definitely.
 
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It sounds like something is expanding with heat.
Could it be that the pressure plate is not engaging when cold and when warm it does? Initially when I installed the new clutch with the used pressure plate and flywheel I could not engage the gears whatsoever. I had to use the clutch pedal adjustment and finally the gears would go in. The engagement was very high and I left it so for the break-in process. After a week or so the pedal enagement level dropped spot-on but then after about a week again it dropped again and again until the state it is now where on the mornings it won't go into any gear. First gears it would go into would be third and fifth. Very annoying now and now when I am driving in a gear and I lift my foot off the throttle I am hearing a whinning sound like the gearbox, make the engine sound a little like a diesel, not on idle though only when the car is in gear and moving with my foot of the throttle, but when I hit the throttle it disappears. Anything to worry about? Maybe it's just me.
 
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I jacked up the car and got my bro to press the clutch, it engages so the slave seems to be working. But the gear still does not shift. Is it the master needing a service and the seals beign replaced? Not sure why the engagement drops to the floor and then when warm goes back normal and the gear engages.
 

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have you changed the clutch fluid? I could have water in it. Just an out there thought.
 
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Will change the fluid this week and see if that helps. Will start with simpler checks and work myself down.
 
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I suspect either it is my master clutch seal as I have fitted two different Nismo slave cylinders, and bled throug about six litres of fluid. So it is either the extension or the seals in the master cylinder? Hmmh. Do Nissan have a set of new seals?

Are the master cylinder same or different for the S15 to the S14/S13s?

UPDATE EDIT:
We took apart the master cylinder, cleaned up and now it works. Either debris or airbubbles.
 
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