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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDM_virgin View Post
    Save your pennies and spanner it yourself
    Got a good point there! That's what I usually do but if you don't have a secondary car or something and you mess up it can be a right pain.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewis View Post
    from what I've seen lots of penetrating oil and heat if necessary... oh and a big breaker bar

    ^this. can confirm this is a right pain to do having watched Dave @Garage21 change my elbow he also gently ground/polished the corrosion off the turbo flange face and used a thread tap the same size as the existing turbo-side threads to clean the corrosion out of them too. might be worth thinking about for getting a really good seal/interface as mine was pretty rusted up etc for a 60k mile car.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewis View Post
    Got a good point there! That's what I usually do but if you don't have a secondary car or something and you mess up it can be a right pain.
    Thatís the boat Iím in right now, no secondary car at the moment.

  4. #14
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    Ah yeah you finally got it on I wanna hear it message me when youíre free


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #15
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    Sure did she's off the road for a bit now tho as my bumper got worse hopefully getting it fixed once and for all next week tho so we shall meet up!
    Quote Originally Posted by lewis View Post
    Ah yeah you finally got it on I wanna hear it message me when youíre free


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    DeanS15's Avatar
    DeanS15 is offline My car is so clean you could eat off it.
    This is DeanS15's Country Flag (England)
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    sheppey, kent
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    It's a good idea to use the nissan 2 bolt tabs too for the manifold to turbo if the design let's you use them, that way once done up the nuts shouldn't be able to work loose easily - and if enough thread is sticking through the back of the flange when you fit the studs, stick a nut on there. For the turbo elbow to downpipe (and any other gasket downstream of there) I always used a bead of regular clear general purpose silicone sealant on the gasket surfaces (a tip I got from a mechanic years ago), it doesn't burn off and stays elastic and I never had any blows in the exhaust..

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saxon View Post
    That’s the boat I’m in right now, no secondary car at the moment.
    If it’s gonna go wrong for you it’ll go wrong for a garage too. Don’t worry about the heat shield, I don’t run one and never had any issues. I will sort some heat management over the winter though.

    the nuts are only m8 so plenty of WD40 or jays fluid they should come off no bother. Grab yourself a pocket blow torch to heat them if you wanna make doubly sure. Honestly though this is one of the simplest mods to do

  8. #18
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    Sep 2015
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    Yeah I guess its fairly simple I was just checking if anyone had idea of anything else I could do whilst im there and make sure I dont screw it up with little ideas like adding rtv with the gaskets! Ive some Permatex ultra grey go might put a light coat on all the gaskets.

    Thanks for all your input

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    As been said the Nissan locking tab washers are to go for the manifold to turbo nuts...and if you are running a 3" exhaust system from turbo back look at some kind of brace from the elbow to what I have done the bellhousing to reduce the movement and strain on the turbo to elbow nuts...

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