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Hello from NZ :D

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Glen

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Just wondered onto this forum

But im from NZ and have a 99 S15



Going to lower it another 15mm in the front annnd 20mm in the rear and it should be at a perfect height , followed by end caps and a front lip off a type r integra :p and a laurfen wing to give it that long sleek look.

Went for the DE+T route as i stumbled across some cheap parts, have a reliable 180kw atw on 10psi but aiming for 200+kw at 14psi :D. It gets used and abused and runs mint.. so far.
 
G

Glen

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They are Stern wheels from japan :D.

Yeah love the +T , prefer it over a DET engine.

Well basically heres the basics for a +T conversion..

-DE engine
-Turbo manifold , Turbo , Dump pipe , front pipe, 3" straight through exhaust
-Oil pressure adapter - ( goes where the oil filter is , has 4 or 5 bungs to add a sensor, oil temp sensor ) But i used it to supply oil to the turbo, used a 1.2M long braided hose, with the appropriate fittings and restrictors.
-Drilled and added a fitting to the sump for the oil return , doesnt burn oil.
-Water lines , drill and tap the water elbow and return to the heater hose, doesnt matter where you take your water supply from as its the same temp everywhere.
-Front mount , V mount or sandwich mount. Cut into the body to make the piping it.
-RB20 , Z32 afm , RB20 can be sweet till 260kw.
-Fuel pressure regulator , i used a tomei reg.
-Walbro pump
-Some kind of boost controller , im just using a bleed valve for now , had a hks evc-s but hated it.
-Bigger injectors , factory s14 det injectors are good till 170kw, but i went for tomei 740cc injectors
-Daughter board or a plug in ecu , like a Link G4 but they retail for around 1850.00 where as a daughter board cost me 400 and is easy to tune.

Some people worry about the compression and add a thicker gasket but then whats the point in doing a +T if you do that, you get awesome response with high compression and you also have a 248 deg inlet cam and a 240 exhaust cam instead of a det 240/240 setup.

Also many say , ooh you will blow it up , but mines been thrashed for a year now and the sound they create compared to a normal det , its muuuch nicer.

The only difference about the de and det engines are the pistons, compression and oil squirters. Compared the rest and its all the same , crank , rods and head.

Its cheap, easy and its definetly worth it if your tuner understands the difference between tuning a de and a det engine.
 
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classic i was just talking to someone else about your car , (since its listed on trademe) on how to do a +t, then you join and post this.. :)
 
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Glen

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i could explain it in more depth but its pretty straight forward. Remove and swap everything over and your done.
 
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Glen

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Well you cant really go into more detail, once you have the parts its like putting a puzzle back together but much easier as your just pulling off the non turbo parts and swapping them. the main parts you need to sort are the oil feed/return and water feed/return, the the rest fall into place.

It cost me a little bit but not bad.

S15 T28BB turbo - 200
Manifold/dump pipe - 50
Front pipe - used a 3" s13 one , cut and rewelded the flange so it lines up with the dump pipe , very cheap thats why i went for it.
Exhaust system - got ripped off but paid 600 for a full system , Xforce muffler and its sounds mint.
AFM - got a free RB20 afm but they are around 30 bucks if you can find them.
Temp sensor plate - 39.00
Braided oil feed - 108 including fittings, that was 1.2m could have gone less maybe 1m or so
Intake - free as there everywhere
Tomei 740cc injectors - got them for 400 brand new , meanest deal ever.
Boost controller of some sort - 20 - 1000.00 depending what you want
intercooler piping - 100
Front mount - 150.00 , mines a greddy one
fuel pressure reg - 200
walbro pump - 150
ECU - 488 for a s15 one less if you swap to a s14 ecu
tune - 500 - 100
propbly other bits ive forgotten but its worth it, if you want to raise the boost significantly , you can upgrade to some BC cams & pistons, which im going to do , and chuck a 2871r with the bigger exhaust housing and 18psi of boost and i should see 270kw
 
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you did get most of that stuff cheap..... i was just looking on trademe and local performance car websites at prices, good stuff man
 
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it just a case of dont run high boost, im looking at a article in a hot 4's mag which says anything over 11psi on stock internals and it wont last very long, but the +side is that you have way a way more responsive engine at low revs, the article says that achieving 150kw at the rears is very safe for the atmo engine.
 
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Glen

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Lol , well the people you spoke to dont know what there talking about, if it isnt tuned right it wont last long, you have to make them run fairly rich to keep the pistons cool. I made 155kw on 7psi and 180kw on 10psi. Im getting it retuned on 15psi and will see what figures i get from that, i know my T28 will be at its limit. A mates car has been running on 16psi for 5 years and he abuses it.. you either like it or hate it , but its cheap power, when it blows i will upgrade the internals to keep high compression and be more reliable.
 

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I was considering converting the DE to run on bioethanol and doing the +T conversion - the higher octane in the E85 with the higher compression and a bit of boost would be immense but everybody I asked said it wouldn't last long :( But like you said, maybe they're just used to bioethanol DET's and may not fully understand the DE????


Spoonman, I don't suppose you could scan that article and email it to me or PM me a link to it??
 
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I was considering converting the DE to run on bioethanol and doing the +T conversion - the higher octane in the E85 with the higher compression and a bit of boost would be immense but everybody I asked said it wouldn't last long :( But like you said, maybe they're just used to bioethanol DET's and may not fully understand the DE????


Spoonman, I don't suppose you could scan that article and email it to me or PM me a link to it??
year ill scan it tonight at work and send it to ya
 
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Glen

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I was considering converting the DE to run on bioethanol and doing the +T conversion - the higher octane in the E85 with the higher compression and a bit of boost would be immense but everybody I asked said it wouldn't last long :( But like you said, maybe they're just used to bioethanol DET's and may not fully understand the DE????

Screw E85 , if they cant get good power with the lower Octane , the tuner doesnt know what hes doing, my mate made 190kw with a NA 13B on 91 octane using a Haltech ecu.. But yes if you try to tune a DE like a DET you are going to fail the engine pretty quickly lol , mate of mine has tuned over 50 DE+T engines and only one has failed from worn rings at 250,000kms , Ive compared my map with a det map and i find it hard to see how it actually makes power or even idle its that insanely lean
 

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Thanks spoonman :thumbs:

Glen;
That'll be my biggest problem so, trying to find somebody over here to map it properly...

Oh and E85 is the job :thumbs: how does a 2L turbo UKDM 200SX daily driver sound with 436.3bhp at the fly & 512.6Nm!

436.3bhp 512.6Nm S14A SR20DET

-Tomei Poncam Camshafts (256 Duration, 11.5 Lift)
-GReddy Rocker Stoppers
-Brian Crower Valve Springs
-Brian Crower +1mm Oversize Inlet & Exhaust Valves
-Head ported by Martin Treacy @ Westward Precision Engineering
-Tomei 1.2mm Metal Head Gasket
-Eagle Forged Conrods
-CP 86.5mm Forged Pistons (Block rebored by Martin Treacy @ Westward Precision Engineering)
-GReddy Alloy Pulley Set
-APEXi Air Filter & Top-hat
-GReddy Short-Port Inlet Plenum with Pulsar N15 SR16VE 70mm Throttlebody
-Powertune mild steel ceramic-coated exhaust manifold
-Tomei Expreme 3” Turbo Elbow
-3” downpipe-back exhaust with Blitz NUR Spec-R back-box and de-cat
-Garrett GT2871R turbo with 0.86 A/R, 2.75” inlet and 0.7bar adjustable actuator
-Bailley Blow-off Valve
-SARD 280L/hour in-tank Fuel Pump
-Bosch 044 External Fuel Pump
-Goodyear 8mm Fuel Lines
-GReddy Top-Fed Fuel Rail
-SARD 1000cc/min low-impedance peak-and-hold injectors
-FJO Racing Low Impedance Injector Driver
-SARD Type-RJ Fuel Pressure Regulator set at 4bar
-800bhp Front-mounted Intercooler
-APEXi Power FC D-Jetro (aftermarket programmable ECU) with Denso MAP sensor & Mazda Air Temperature Sensor & APEXi PowerFC Commander
-Mapped for E85 (104RON) by Stiv
-Blitz Dual-SBC Spec-R Dual Solenoid Boost controller set at 1.8bar
-Mapped on E85

OR - another daily (S15)

415bhp 474.3Nm S15 SR20DET

Standard internals sr20det
Apexi air filter
Blitz fmic
HKS evc 5 boost controller
Apexi pfc L-jetro
Nismo 740cc fuel injector
HKS GT-RS turbo boost pressure set to 1.2/1.3 bar
HKS adjustable actuator
Nismo fuel pump
HKS spark plugs
Splitfire coilpacks
Split fire grounding kit
Mapped on E85
 
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