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S15 spec r information

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ryan1019

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G = Coup
BY = SR20 engine
A = 2 wheel drive
R = Right hand drive
U = spec S or spec R
A = 4 speed auto, Y = 6 speed manual
S15 = model
U = Turbo, E = NA
D = Domestic model, M = Australia
4 = 4 seats

I want to know what the last 5 letters/numbers means except for the NZ (YNZ2Z)?

Also the turbo as a S15 auto 165kw/6000rpm/225bhp is not as superior as the manual at 185kw which got the "14411-91F00" ball bearing turbo as per here :
http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Factory-O ... _1265.html

I want to know if my model has the "14411-69F00", "14411-75F00" and if its ball bearing or non ball bearing as a year 2000 - 200sx car.



Jap PS13 14411-50F00
AU/NZ S14 (pre-facelift) 14411-75F00
AU/NZ S14 (facelift) 14411-75F00
Jap S14 (pre-facelift) 14411-69F00
Jap S14 (facelift) 14411-82F01
Jap S14 (Autech/270R) 14411-RP801 (Same as S15 early MT turbo)
Jap/ NZ S15 (early*) 14411-91F00 Manual model only
Jap/ NZ S15 (early*) 14411-69F00 Automatic models
 
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ryan1019

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Oh My Model : GBYARUAS15UD4YNZ2Z with the (YNZ2Z) to what i was asking above yes i am from New Zealand
 

meddler

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The S15 auto had S14 (smaller 370cc) injectors and was detuned. All the ADM cars had a sleeve bearing. From the numbers, it could be a NZDM car. Does it have an arial in the rear quarter panel?

Not sure about the turbo bearings. Check the useful guides and you may find more info.
 
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ryan1019

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hi

Yes i heard AUS cars were detuned but this definetly is NZ assembled "arial"? well i have the original manual does say 165kw and the AUS auto models were round about 110kw.Unsure what the "YNZ2Z" is at the end of the model number though
 
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i take it you didnt look at the ID plate when you had the turbo off? you can see the info with a pen mirror that will tell you if you have the T28BB or not
 
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ryan1019

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Ok will try a mirror just need to find the exact place to identify ....im not a mechanic and a newbie.. by the way nice car you have on the forum
 

meddler

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The ADM manual was 115rwkw, so I would guess the ADM auto would be around 100-105rwkw due to the extra losses in the driveline and the smaller injectors.

The YNZ2Z would have to be the serial number at a guess. Not much is known about the NZDM cars.
 
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ryan1019

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hi

Cheers, my car manual says 165kw and the manual 185 so i imagine the S14 ball bearing turbo
 

meddler

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I am sure that there are others here than can give a definate answer, but I was always under the impression that the type of bearing/bushing for the turbo doesn't really affect the power output, just the spool time / response.

The reason for the different power outputs between the JDM and ADM cars was thh crappy fuel here in Aus so the cars had to be detuned. I am sure the same thing happened in NZ.
 
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I am sure that there are others here than can give a definate answer, but I was always under the impression that the type of bearing/bushing for the turbo doesn't really affect the power output, just the spool time / response.

The reason for the different power outputs between the JDM and ADM cars was thh crappy fuel here in Aus so the cars had to be detuned. I am sure the same thing happened in NZ.
No sir, NZDM was the same power output as the JDM, it just had the S badge replaced with the nissan one from the boot and a 200sx badge on its arse, and big gay aerial too boot, apart from that same car.
 

meddler

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you guys must have real fuel down there then!
 
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ryan1019

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I use 95 at shell does the same if better than 98 cause all 98 is, 95 with additives actually just cleaning fluids.
 

meddler

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From memory, back then we had 87,91 and 95.
 
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I use 95 at shell does the same if better than 98 cause all 98 is, 95 with additives actually just cleaning fluids.
year but some of those additives help a lot to resisting det. gull 98 is just a meth boosted fuel and is crap, mobil 8000 (half way between 97 & 98) is exactly what you said above, but bp 98 is not too bad and adding to you power, you will notice the difference with the S15
 
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ryan1019

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well i didnt notice any difference talked to Joe Kyle about it and the 95 just runs down the same pipeline and is just as good even though he is on Gull force 10
 
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well i didnt notice any difference talked to Joe Kyle about it and the 95 just runs down the same pipeline and is just as good even though he is on Gull force 10
i have been told by tuners to use bp 98, based on there own experience tuning cars, even before my power run at st hitec he asked me if i had the gull 98 or bp, and told me not to use the gull, he used to say it was ok but after seeing too many things go wrong with it, recommends only stick to bp
 
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ryan1019

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Pity its the only true 98 fuel about non ethanol, as for oil i use Redline 10W30, got a new oxygen sensor $70 US. the NZ assembled S15s were tuned anyway compared to the Aussie version Auto 165kw NZ 110kw AU
 
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Pity its the only true 98 fuel about non ethanol, as for oil i use Redline 10W30, got a new oxygen sensor $70 US. the NZ assembled S15s were tuned anyway compared to the Aussie version Auto 165kw NZ 110kw AU
just get a lightning S for the bonnet :) cant bag gull too much though as i see gull have released a E85 fuel from the pump, but its only avail from hamilton or just north in Taupiri
 
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