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Suspension set up advice needed..Camber & toe etc..

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Hi folks, I have tried the search but not had any luck, I am wondering if anyone can give me some advice on set ups for fast road use. ie, camber and toe settings. Anyone got some tried and tested settings for good grip and control..

Sorry if there is a thread on this I couldn't find any specific info, just chat on what coilovers are thought to be the best.
I am running RS-R Super intelligence coilies. stock ARB's. and Adjustable arms can be got if needed.. Any help would be great..
 

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I'm running 2.1 deg rear camber with 0 toe and the grip is immense. No good for sliding around though if you like that. can't remember my front settings bit it's pretty much the whiteline sport settings (can be found in useful links).
 
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With my current setup I have the following and grip is insanely good:

Front
Camber -2.5 degrees
Toe -1mm each side
Castor +7.0 degrees

Rear
Camber -2.0 degrees
Toe 0mm

A lot of people think I run too much rear camber, but the fact is that stock factory camber is -1.50 degrees +/- 0.40 degrees. So -2.0 degrees isn't that much when you consider we build our cars to corner better/faster. If you're car is lowered then make sure you get adjustable rear traction arms to correct your dynamic camber.
 
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^^^ 1mm toe per side? left in 1mm in and right is 1mm out? :p

I would advise

F camber 2'50"
toe 0'05" IN per side
castor 7'20"

R camber 1'10"
toe 0'00"

traction links at standard length, standard ARBs, standard lower arms and hubs.

measurements are in ' degrees and " minutes, not points of degree. do not be confused by the two.

that set-up will work very well as a daily "tuned road car" set-up and give positive feedback under most conditions.
 
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^^^ 1mm toe per side? left in 1mm in and right is 1mm out? :p

I would advise

F camber 2'50"
toe 0'05" IN per side
castor 7'20"

R camber 1'10"
toe 0'00"

traction links at standard length, standard ARBs, standard lower arms and hubs.

measurements are in ' degrees and " minutes, not points of degree. do not be confused by the two.

that set-up will work very well as a daily "tuned road car" set-up and give positive feedback under most conditions.
Wow! Good info there mate!! Can i get that setup just by adding some adjustable camber and toe arms then leaving the others standard?

Also, you've seen how low my 15 is.. the front lower arms actually point upwards from the subframe to the front hubs.. will that cause crappy handling? I want more lock too! Cheers dude!! :)
 
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Wow! Good info there mate!! Can i get that setup just by adding some adjustable camber and toe arms then leaving the others standard?

Also, you've seen how low my 15 is.. the front lower arms actually point upwards from the subframe to the front hubs.. will that cause crappy handling? I want more lock too! Cheers dude!! :)
well, you will need tension rods, adjustable pillow ball upper mounts on the front and the rear traction links as a bare minimum to get the adjustments you need. Its obviously better to have the full 3 arm rear set, but i always run standard lower arms for a bit of "give" and to act as a "crumple" zone if you hit anything, rather than getting straight into bent subframe teritory. Make sure your lower arm bushes are fresh though!

as far as your arms pointing upwards, its bad, like really bad! basically, because your arms are at the end of thier operating range, several crap things happen, the most prominent being the effects of bump steer.
this explains it reasonably well in simple terms - http://www.viosturbo.com/2010_04_24_archive.html

the only real way to run super low without having very unprediactable handling is to run the driftworks geomaster knuckles. Infact, if you buy R34 GTT kinked tension rods, Geo knuckles, rack offset spacers, aftermarklet rods/ends and coilovers, then you can run standard geo at an instant 50mm drop but with MASSIVE steering angle. you can start chopping about at the subframes and the mounting positions of the arms, but thats a little more labour intensive compared with bolting stuff on.

the problem with this subject is, short of writing a thesis, its far to complicated for me to be arsed to type out. however, with a couple of sketches, a pint of beer and an hour in a sunny beer garden, you totally get it. hook line and sinker.

so what im saying is, buy geo knuckles if you intend on doing anything silly in a slammed as S body.
 
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^^^

caster setting... "MAX"

what a load of ****. basically thats nissans factory settings mildly exadurated for "racing" - it pisses me off that people pay for whiteline parts, especially ARBs, last thing you ever need to change on an S15!
 
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haha yeah max castor.... I've got 7 degrees on mine and seems to be doing OK, steering effort hasn't really increased and I haven't noticed any of this "jacking" effect. But I assume "jacking" happens mostly on full lock though? And I never find my self on full lock when on the track anyway.

I bought my car with some Whiteline rear sway bar, I was advised that it could be the cause of some understeering issues I had. So I removed it and installed GTR swaybar my friend had lieing around and it helped a lot.

To the OP, just try one of the recommended alignment setups but keep in mind that all cars react differently to alignment settings. Just too many factors like ride height, coilover/spring settings, tyres, weight distribution, etc...

[EDIT] I wish we had more tech discussions like this on the forums =)
 
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