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Power capability of S15?

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SpecR6000

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Hi guys i'm new to the forum. Basically I need some info on what the max power the stock turbo on the JDM s15 can produce? and same for the stock injectors? From what I have read people seem to run max 1.2bar on the stock engine? Options for the EMS are either Apexi PFC or Nistune board installed in stock ecu, opinions on either? Appreciate any help thanks.
 

DeanS15

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you can run 1.2bar with a nistune board and achieve somewhere in the region of 320hp/320 ib/ft of torque on a good day - injectors will be at almost maximum duty and afm will be approachig its limits. turbo wont flow any more than that realistically. :) lots of people are favouring nistune now rather than the pfc etc, due to cost and features.
 

DeanS15

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you can achieve that with just a turbo upgrade mate but i had to uprate the clutch, injectors, afm, turbo, added cams to make the most of it, fitted an uprated head gasket and head studs for durability and a rocker stopper kit and a few other things......
 

craig8585

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No. 320's about the limit on the standard turbo/injectors/AFM etc as Dean said. You don't have to change the head gasket and cams to get upto 360 but Dean's done it properly and has spent that bit extra to make it drive that bit nicer.

Standard internals ie. pistons/rods etc are ok upto around 400 usually, but things will obviously wear out a lot quicker with that much power and torque going through them.
 
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Thanks for the replies. So what's the story with these z32 afm people seem to change to? Are they plug and play?

With the nistune would you need a boost controller to increase the boost? Is it user friendly or very complicated software?
 

craig8585

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They are very simple to fit. There is some re-wiring but very basic. Check the useful threads section as there is a 'How to' guide in there.

Nistune is good from what I've read. I don't know what it's like to use as I leave mapping to the guys with experience in it. And yes, you will need a boost controller to acheive 1.2 bar.
 

craig8585

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Erm.. depends on your budget really. I think the cheapest one is the Gizzmo, most common one is the Greddy Profec B Spec II and the one with most functions is the HKS EVC 6.
I've got the HKS EVC 6 but use hardly any of the functions as it's got more stuff on it than you'll ever need. If I was buying one again I'd get the HKS EVC S without doubt as it's got a small display, looks really good and will do what you want perfectly well.
 
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Cheers. Id be tempted to go with the power fc for the reason you can add the apexi boost control kit to it and control boost levels via commander but also because I have tuned with them in the past so am familiar with the software and functions. I may give Nistune a look as I see it has knock control whereas the PFC hasn't
 

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yes the nistune has knock control AFAIK
 
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Is a lite weight flywheel a worthwhile modification on the sr20 turbo?
 

craig8585

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It's all personal preference but if I had my box off to do the clutch for example, then I would do the fly too, but wouldnt bother taking the box off just to change the fly. Was going to change mine but I got a S14 fly thinking it would be compatible with the S15. School-boy error! You can get sometimes vibrations with the single mass flys though.
 

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you will get more vibration with a single mass flywheel but the upside of that is the clutches available in this type of setup can hold more power, plus the fact that decreased weight in the flywheel (and in turn on the crankshaft) allows for slighter quicker acceleration. the only downside to a lightened flywheel apart from a little vibration is that sometimes you will have to reach for a lower gear as it has less inertia due to the lesser weight and therefore will slow down quicker off throttle. vibration from single mass flywheel i have found is only between around 3000-2500 rpm when decellerating, under load or when accelerating it feels and sound perfect like any other combination, plus you quickly learn to drive around it.

as for power, craig is right :). bottom ends have been known to handle in excess of 400bhp as can the valvetrain (if not spending its life bouncing off the limiter) but the weakest point in the standard engine is the head gasket. if you are changing the gasket then its silly not to change the head bolts while you're there. if you wish to maintain power across the whole rev range then a set of cams definitely helps, and if you change out the cams then a set of valve springs is definitely a worthwhile accompaniment - rocker arm stoppers are just a fairly cheap precautionary measure should a bounce off the limiter be enough to throw a rocker arm, these are meant to prevent the broken arm from bouncing around the head causing all sorts of damage. theres nothing to stop you running enough boost through the same turbo without these additional modifications to make similar power, but i wanted to give enough support to the turbo to make the most of it and avoid any nasty surprises......
 

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I know I keep mentioning it but the weakest link overall is the gearbox. Prepare yourself for it failing or swap/reinforce it before it does - and then it won't be such a nasty shock if/when it goes pop!
 
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1.2bar on the factory GT2560R is a sensible boost limit as any more and your maxing the factory Injectors and also the turbine doesnt flow too well after those kinda levels and EGT's start to rise :( . the MAF is also at its limit anyway at that level, which is why I tend to advise my folk to switch to the Z32 MAF (wider resolutions and almost TWICE the size in terms of internal diameter)

You'll make the same power on all the ECU's you mention above... and driveability will be the same (Factory ECU would be your best bet at that level anyway, unless your wanting to do away with the MAF) and Id use a Haltech PS1000 ECU if that were the case ;) sets you up completely for future in terms of features
 
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