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Glass headlights, where do they come from?

Darren_S15

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Would you need to remove the plastic from the light unit to get rid of the yellow tint, or just rub down the outside of the plastic on the headlight?

Thanks,

Darren
 

Nicely

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Shame they convert them from RHD to LHD beam patterns...

EDIT: aha, I see that's an option... Is it legal in the UK to have to parking and indicator lights combined?
 
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sillbeers15

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Nicely,

I'm sure clearcorners will entertain your request since they provide the conversion service on the headlights or other parts you send them.

The HID conversion you've done, any melting/deformation of wirings/connecrors problem arrising from higher loaded current supplied to the HIDs?
Is 2700K you're talking about 'candle lights' strength?
 

Nicely

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I fitted an uprated loom to supply the HIDs with power direct from the battery. This is recommended to protect the original loom from the increased current during HID ignition. I also have a relay kit fitted which separates the HIDs from the high beams and keeps them on constantly, regardless of whether you engage high beams or not. The HIDs will not ignite if you 'flash' your lights during the day either - just the highs.

4700k are about the same as most OEM HIDS and are a pure white. I have 6000k fitted, which give a bluer tint. Any higher or lower than these two temp ratings is actually counter-productive. They may look cool, but the brightness of the light produced is worse than halogens.
 
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sillbeers15

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I fitted an uprated loom to supply the HIDs with power direct from the battery. This is recommended to protect the original loom from the increased current during HID ignition. I also have a relay kit fitted which separates the HIDs from the high beams and keeps them on constantly, regardless of whether you engage high beams or not. The HIDs will not ignite if you 'flash' your lights during the day either - just the highs.
----Nicely
The stock H4 bulb has 3 wire connections. A low, a high and a earth, correct?

I read from a Jap DIY site that did the HID conversion, it recommended connecting high beam to low beam via a 3A diode. I'm confused with that receomemdation! But again, the HID does only have 2 wire connection to the balast, correct?
There is also a modification process to the HID bulb housing for it to fit like a H4 from other sites. Is it necessary?
I understand when you say you connected a seperate relay to activate the high beam, but how to when there is only 2 connecting wires to HID if i am correct? If you had connected 2 source to each high and low beam, why can't you power up the high beam in the day? The stock HID in my Murano can do that....what Can I do to do so? looks like a challanging DIY project for me to pick it up. Please do share. Thanks.

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4700k are about the same as most OEM HIDS and are a pure white. I have 6000k fitted, which give a bluer tint. Any higher or lower than these two temp ratings is actually counter-productive. They may look cool, but the brightness of the light produced is worse than ----Nicely
If it an't any brighter than H4 Halogen bulb, ....why do the HID conversion? There are many 'white' H4 bulbs available in the market.
 

Nicely

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What's this about H4 bulbs? The S15 takes H1s and you can buy HID kits with H1 fitment bulbs.

The relay kit I fitted was made by someone on SXOC following a large HID group buy. I'd had to try to find the wiring for it, but there's two standard lighting relays in it. It ignites the HIDs when the lights are switched on, but takes a feed from the side lights. This ensures that they stay on permanently and aren't controlled by the high/low circuit. It also ensures that they don't ignite when you do a daytime stalk pull to flash your lights (as they have no live side light feed when this is done). The reason for separating the HIDs from the high/low circuit is because some circuits cut power to the low beam bulbs for a fraction of a second when flicking from high to low beam. Whilst this is fine for halogen bulbs, its serious bad news for HIDs. They don't react well to constant re-ignition. Sometime they will fail to ignite in this scenario. Also, constant re-ignition will shorten their lives considerably. If you want me to find the wiring stuff, say so and I'll do a search.

Not sure you understood about the bulb temperatures. 4700K, 5000K and 6000K HID bulbs are all much brighter AND CLEARER than halogen. People insist on getting 7000K, 8000K, and even 10000K bulbs because they look cool. However, the clarity of the light is worse than halogens.
 
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sillbeers15

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My appology for calling the main headlight bulb H4, I thought its such. So, its H1. If the H1 HID conversion bulb goes kaput....is there a standard replacement HID bulb available commonly?

yes. I'm keen in the wiring you talked about. Can you provide a set, a link or only a wiring diagram? Appreciate your help. You can PM me the $ if it is a set to be purchased.
 

Nicely

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Yep, replacement bulbs can be got fairly easily from whoever sourced your kit. Generally, its the bulbs which are the most expensive part of any kit. Replacement prices vary, but you're looking at around US$110 for a pair.

I'll have a look for the wiring stuff for you today :)
 

meddler

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Nicely,

Could you post the diagrams if you find them please. I wouldn't mind seeing them either. Thanks
 

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Took a while to find the diagram I was after. I've now hosted it myself as I keep having to look for it periodically.

An SXOC member originally made the relay kits but became a little bit unreliable when people asked him about making more of them the other year. He also wouldn't give a wiring diagram for the kit, so I ripped the back off the relay box and drew a VERY basic diagram. Its NOT meant to be a wiring diagram, only to show what's what.



I did have the rating of the capacitor somewhere, but I can't find it...

Here's the original diagram showing how to wire the kits:

 
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Jpower

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Nice, but I was wanting to get a relay kit... looks like I'm going to have to make one myself when I go HID soon.

Are there any other kits on the market?
 
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gunner93

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Took a while to find the diagram I was after. I've now hosted it myself as I keep having to look for it periodically.

An SXOC member originally made the relay kits but became a little bit unreliable when people asked him about making more of them the other year. He also wouldn't give a wiring diagram for the kit, so I ripped the back off the relay box and drew a VERY basic diagram. Its NOT meant to be a wiring diagram, only to show what's what.



I did have the rating of the capacitor somewhere, but I can't find it...

Here's the original diagram showing how to wire the kits:

Gosh Nicely,

I was planning to replace my H1 to 4700k HID and I thought it was just Plug & Play with some mod on the looms. :rotfl: After reading your recommendations, I wonder if my wireman knows what is discussed here. Good stuff! :thumbs:
 

meddler

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I too thought it was just a straight swap.
 

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You can just fit them, but you then will mostly likely have the problem with the low beams cutting out on engaging the high beam Nicely mentioned, as well as the HID flashing issue, which will soon kill the bulbs.

I have an HID and a Cookie relay (refered to in Nicleys post), just havent got round to fitting it, to be honest i'm a bit lost :eek:
 

meddler

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what are you lost about? Maybe we can help
 

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Lost and scared, Wiring scares me :D

Here's the original diagram showing how to wire the kits:

So the negative from the Ignitor goes to the original negative from the headlight plug, and the positive from the ignitor to the red wire from the "box o'tricks", where does the positive from the headlight plug go? Does it conect to the ignitor via the white wire?
 

Nicely

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Its all protection. A REALLY important additional thing is to not trust the blade connectors that come in these kits. Solder and shrink wrap EVERY connection. I lost a set of bulbs due to useless blade connectors. They simply don't give a reliable connection. A bad connection will cause the HIDs to keep re-igniting. This will kill your bulbs in no time.

I've had no problems with them since I soldered everything. That was over two years ago...
 

meddler

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If it is red with a blue stripe, it goes to the yellow wire on the box
 

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Ah yes :wack:, its so easy when someone points it out :D

What about the Earth of the sidelights?

Nicely, i plan to solder everything :thumbs:, where to buy shrink wrap?
 
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