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Car audio set ups. Explain yours

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I'm trying to figure out how my future audio set up is going to be physically wired so in an attempt to wrap my head around the subject, I like to put the question to you guys: how is your car audio system set up? I'm not looking for "which amp is better" etc, more, what have you got hooked up to what. Do you have passive crossovers in the front? An amplified rear channel? An active sub? Etc. In the end I'm hoping to run an amplified front channel, amplified rear channel and an amplified sub. Your help would be much appreciated.

Post pics to show it off too if you'd like!
 

meddler

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My install isn't completed yet (and it will never be finished, just ask my wife!)

I am running a dual core pentium laptop running a 7" LCD touch screen as my audio source. From there it goes to my active crossover and then runs to my 2 x 4 channel amps and my 2 channel bridged sub amp. All my speakers are run active, ie, each speaker has it's own amplifier channel. I run Focal splits front and rear and a single 10" sub. If I am not happy with the results, I will remove the rears and just run front stage only. I can always add an extra sub that I have sitting in the cupboard if there is not enough bass :)

No pictures until it is looking reasonably finished.
 
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Sounds pretty decent. I'm hoping to only need one amp though. Any more just seems excessive to me
 

meddler

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I come from an audio background. I know it sounds excessive, but I have all the equipment, so why not use it.
 

craig8585

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When you hear a proper sound system with amp'd speakers the sound and clarity is amazing. Well worth it if that's what you like :)
 
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It really depends on what you want to acheive. (best sound quality or volume)

if your going for a high 'Sound Quality' system, then active crossovers and multi channel amps (or ideally seperate amps for each set of speakers, F/R) plus either a dedicated channel (as in a 5 channel amp) or a dedicated amp for the Sub is a good set up.

However the quality of the sound will only be as good as the weakest link in the system, so now you need a HQ head unit (or digital source as Meddler has) and a clean signal to the boot where the amps/xovers will be kept (if that's were you intend them), options here could be a 'Line Driver' i.e. high voltage signal so that the signal to noise ratio is low. Or a digital connection like optical or digital. Check and remake your ground connections, far too many installations suffer because of interference/noise from poor ground connections.

Then some form of equaliser (1/3 octive, parametric, digital etc) to correct the accoustic errors (peak/troughs) within the car and then some set up time with an RTA to 'tune' the sound.

Depending on how much you have spent on the equipment and set up this is a simple competition set up. (minus sound deadening and many other work to be honest).

For a street system

I'd say 5 channel amp (2ch front, 2ch rear, 1ch SUB), some decent components in the front (say 6.5" 2 way ideally with adjustable tweeter positioning) with passive xover (but using the amps built in xover as well to limit the low end to the front stage).
Small 4-5" rear effect speakers on the shelf (fairly centre, no need to seperate out and 2 way, not dual cone) again passive xover.
I really don't like rear set up's, it's completely un-natural and ruins the front sound stage when it's over done, it's meant to simply provide some rear effects simulating the boundry reflections from the front sound, not a new sound direction in it's own right, after all when you listen to a band there not playing from behind you...

Then a good quality Sub, 10" should be all you need, spend as much on this as you can as the sound from poor subs is completely different to high end subs, quality would be JL Audio W6/W7 standard. Then depending on what sound you like, sealed or vented box. Feed with the remaining channel from the 5 channel amp.

That or if you can afford it go fully active on the xover and bin the component xovers.

Keep it simple, spend some money on angeling the front components and the sound quality can be amazing. Best to get help once you have the gear from a good car audio installer on the final speaker positioning and setup, the difference can be night and day.

Really there's so many way to do it these days on the front end (PC based front ends, laptops, headunits etc), but on the rear end (processing, amps, speakers) it hasn't changed for years (different stuff but nothing revolutionary)

If you want loud then that's a different story :)

Many years ago now I spent two years competing in the UK SCA (Sound Challenge Association) circuit in SQ+ (Sound Quality + SPL), made it to the finals at Earls Court as well :)
 
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Yea 10 inch sub and a 4ch + mono or bridged 2ch might be the way to go. I don't have too much money to burn unfortunately.

I just switch head-units today only to find [one of] the previous owners did a poor poor job of the one that was installed. Twisted wires and insulation tape. I nearly cried :( . So I've used one of those blocks that look like lego and screwed in each of the pairs for now. Not ideal either I know but I'll leave it like that until I start chucking more power into the system. Then I'll go the whole hog and start crimping up a storm
 
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I come from an audio background. I know it sounds excessive, but I have all the equipment, so why not use it.
great to hear, since im such a good bastard, if you ever come over to this part of the world you can show me how to set mine up as im never happy with my sound installations. :)
 

meddler

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lol. I can try to really stuff it up. lol. You never know when I might visit :)
 

Mike

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I have a Alpine double din headunit which seems to work both front tweeters but only the drivers door speaker... good times.
 
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nice :)

What components do you have in the doors, can you get at the speaker connections, might be worth swapping the speaker cable feeding the tweeter to the mid range driver to check for signal. unless you are driving the speakers individualy you will be using a passive crossover on the tweeter/mid base combo, so if the mid bass driver isn't working it's the cross over or cabling at fault (not the alpine). That or the Alpine is only sending a signal above about 3khz to the combo (unlikely).

check your cables and also you could swap over the crossovers between doors, see if the problem moves to the other door.
 
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Wow, cranked up some tunes today and discovered the stock speakers are so so tinny. In dire need of this upgrade me thinks.
 
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wow this post has opened my eyes (i have 0 background experience in quality sound system)!!!, so my question, what brands will you recommend for front and back speakers? i have a pioneer avh-p3200dvd hu and was thinking of buying jbl gto638 for the front, still thinking what to put in the back...
 
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Common professional consensus on the S15 audio install:
1)Leave rear speakers alone. Concentrate on the front stage.
2)Sound deaden doors, both inner, and outer skin.
3)Amp the new front speakers
4)Add sub if required.
 
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At the moment I am still running the stock speakers, but I have a 2channel amp, 6.5" components for the front, a mono channel amp and a 10 inch sub for the boot waiting to go in. But in all honesty I am beginning to think they will never make it, had the car for nearly 3 or 4 years and I am yet to find the motivation to wire them up and install them, god I hate electrics.
 
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At the moment I am still running the stock speakers, but I have a 2channel amp, 6.5" components for the front, a mono channel amp and a 10 inch sub for the boot waiting to go in. But in all honesty I am beginning to think they will never make it, had the car for nearly 3 or 4 years and I am yet to find the motivation to wire them up and install them, god I hate electrics.
Pay people to do it. :D
 
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I hate paying people to do things that I cab do perfectly well even if I am too lazy to actually do it. And I'm always worried they will just bodge it up as you see far too often.

How much do 'professionals' charge to do a simple install like that?
 
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If you have all the speaker cables, power cables and fuse blocks, then they should only probably charge you about 3hrs labor, don't know what the current rate is, but no more than 3hrs, probably 2 if they're good. If I were back home I'd do it for a drink, I actually like doing installs. But im in the US even if my cars in Sussex :(
 
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one of my rear speakers stopped working for some reason last week... are the front same as the rear speakers? as i'm going to exchange my front for new jbl ones, i can take these and send them to the back if they are the same. Also, what would be the best position for a sub to get the most out on audio quality for the s15???
 
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