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Weird boost issue

Topper

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Had my car and boost settings setup by Jez (
), I managed to damage the wire from my Solenoid to the main unit in the car, this caused my boost to run at around stock (slightly less - 0.7bar) from the 1+bar it had been.

I got a replacement wire, made no difference.
I then replaced the solenoid, made no difference.
Tried a new control unit, again no difference.

I'm stuck, the control unit is still reading the boost, but does not appear to be doing much else.

Any ideas?
Are there any fuses i should check?

Cheers
Topp
 
G

GUEST_JDM

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by the sounds of it you have no power to the solenoid, im not sure what boost controller your running, but most when de-energised are normally open so you will have a stright feed to the actuator giving you near stock boost depending if all the in-line restrictors have been removed or not, id plug voltage onto the solenoid to make sure you have a connection and the solenoid is moving using the replacement cable you just got, try that for a start and if its not that, there may be a short inside the controll unit
 
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I have the same problem! The only difference is i havent tried a new control unit yet!

I tested the voltage the controller was sending to the solenoid and it was a bit strange, it wasnt constant and was very low??

I'm guessing the worst has happened and ill need a new controller! Hope its not the same for you Topper :(
 

Topper

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Thanks guys, i've got a Greddy Profec B II

I did check the voltage when the previous solenoid wasnt working, but havent checked again with new wire. I'll check, would be good to know whats going on!
 

Topper

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Have checked the power:

Solenoid end of the wire from Control unit is not getting power
Control unit is getting power
No power is leaving the control unit - No power from either of the control units!

Anyone got a Profec B II that can check for power coming from the control unit?

Cheers :)
 
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Does anyone know what the voltage should be to the solenoid, should it be a constant 12v?

Also is there anywhere that can fix the main control units?

Cheers
 
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GUEST_JDM

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any chance you checked the voltage when the controll unit didn't need to work, im not sure but i'll check my greedy boost contoller 2nite, but im sure u will have no voltage to the solenoid untill the car comes onto boost and the contoller starts working also i think its pulsating dc voltage when the controller sends its signal to the solenoid so you will need an anolog meter to veiw it as the pulsating would be to fast for a digital multi meter to read it! um, did you try voltage straight onto the solenoid as well? on and off to see if you can here it clicking as it energizes and de-energizes ... let me know how that goes
 

Topper

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A digital meter didnt register anything from the rear of the control unit, but if as you say its pulsating and olny on boost, then sitting in my garage wont show anything anyway....

I'll attempt to check it on boost with my digital meter, and see if i can get hold of an analog one.

By voltage onto the solenoid, do you mean the voltage from the end of the cable that goes to the solenoid from the control unit, if yes, then i have checked this, and again now power registered.

Interested to hear if you have any signal :nod:
 
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GUEST_JDM

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okay tried the test on the solenoid power while not on boost and i can confirm that there is no signal/voltage, by voltage onto the solenoid i mean 12 volts onto it on and off so unplug it make up some dogy wires and touch the terminals on the solenoid it's self and you should be able to here it click in and out just to test if you still have movment from the solenoid when you connect it to 12 volts. to test the controller unit while not on boost you can use a hand held pump i have one for testing flow switches, you can pump up the signal line only to the inside unit, so run a new temp vacum line from the pump and to the greddy controll unit turn the key to acc so just your boost controller and your radio turns on but your car isnt running use a analog meter on the back terminals on the unit you should see the needle move back wards and forwards heaps as i did while you pump the pressure up, if so your unit is fine, sorry im really bad at explaining things but if you still have movemt on the solenoid once you apply voltage then do the test on your unit then that should rull out most of it. just out of question have you checked the vacum line to the controll unit at all?
 
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Ok, ill give that a try! dont know where im going to get a pump from lol I have checked the vacum line and all is ok!

If it is the control unit would it be fixable?

Thanks for your help!! :thumbs:
 
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GUEST_JDM

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alot of mechanics have the hand held pumps with psi gauge on them, that im talking about, manly used for finding faults might pay to ask if u have a friend who works at a mechanic work shop if u can borrow one for a week end or something. if its the unit its all ways touch n go if u can fix them i have fixed other things similar but depends what the fault is or how hard it is to find, if its something as simple as a lose connection and its visually easy to see and work on than yes, let me know how it all turns out mate
 
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