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Oz Vrs Jap Standard ECU

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pikie

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Hi all, i have done some searches and found very little info, can anyone tell me the differance between the Jap Spec s15 turbo Manual ecu and the Australian s15 turbo Manual ecu?

My Australian ecu has large LJ Letters printed on it, in Comparison the Japanese ECU i Just Purchased has NQ letters; what dose this mean?

1. jap speed limited to 180?
2. is there anything else?
 
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elizium

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There are some differences in the pinouts... The CAM reference and CAM position (pins 30 and 31) are reversed between japanese and australian.

Also the j-spec uses pin 104 for the fuel pump relay and not 106 as it in the Australian ECM.
 

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Essentially, the fuel map. The JDM ECU is mapped for 100+RON fuel, the ADM is mapped for 95RON. As a result, the standard ADM's power is 200bhp, as opposed to the JDM's 250bhp (RUNNING 100+RON). Run the JDM ECU on 95RON without a remap and the engine will die pretty quickly.
 

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I suspect that the mapping is different as the JDM uses a better quality fuel compared to the ADM.

Edit: Nicely beat me to it.
 
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pikie

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mmm, the pin situation would explain why the car wont start.
the map for 100ron should not be an issue as i run 98 fuel + water injection & i have fitted a large front mount ic.
The main reason i wanted to change was out of hope that the jap ecu map tune would better suit my bolt on mods like new bb turbo, exhaust mods, intercooler & intake. A freind had the jap one spare i thorght it might be good to remap later on and it only cost me $100au.

To make this work would it be as easy as uncliping & pushing out the wire females nessasery & moving them to the right location?

any help would be appricated.

pikie
 
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elizium

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pushing out the wire and pushing it back in for the fuel pump is necessary - in my recollection there is no pin in the 104 slot... It is a b*** to do though but possible.

For the CAM/CAS sensor swap (30/31) easier just to clip the wires and swap them then resolder....
 

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I agree that its a good temporary solution. If you plan to up the boost, you'll still need a remap running 98RON though. Particularly in Oz... :)
 
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pikie

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Thanks everyone (especially elizium). ill swap the wires in the next few days and ill c if i can get it going.

pikie
 

meddler

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just for info. You can modify the standard computer to make it programmable. It's called a bikirom mod. The guy that does it develops it in his spare time so it's a bit slow, but its a cheaper alternative to a powerfc.

Link: http://www.bikirom.com/
 

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That's quite interesting :) Its the same thing that Jez at Horsham Developments does, but with the added ability to program yourself :D
 

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yeah, it's a great piece of work. It's just a shame that development is so slow. I initially looked at going this way, but I decided on gettting the Powerfc due to it being tried and tested.
 
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I agree that its a good temporary solution. If you plan to up the boost, you'll still need a remap running 98RON though. Particularly in Oz... :)
Actually stock the JDM import S15 will run on our 98 RON which is one of the reasons that they are able to be imported now
The JDM runs .9bar boost as stock and the ADM .5 bar which also reflected the lower octane fuel available at the time(2000-2002)

It seems stange that a JDM computer won't work in a ADM car as the only difference at the time was fuel quality
 

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Sorry. Should have clarified that I meant upping the boost on the JDM ECU.

You are right. We run the standard JDM Spec Rs happily on 98RON in the UK. Stock is 0.7-0.8 bar though. There is the most horrendous lean section mid range in the JDM map. When I initially got mine remapped (running 98RON, an FMIC, HKS Silent High Power and front pipe), it was detting like fcuk anything above 0.8 bar.
 
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yeah, it's a great piece of work. It's just a shame that development is so slow. I initially looked at going this way, but I decided on gettting the Powerfc due to it being tried and tested.
The Power FC is also easier to get tunned by the numerous Dyno Tuners that have the software to do it, which gives you flexability of choice:)
 
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When I initially got mine remapped (running 98RON, an FMIC, HKS Silent High Power and front pipe), it was detting like fcuk anything above 0.8 bar.
You can imagine the diffilculties we had then on upgrading a car that had an ECU that was detuned to your stock JDM ECU.That was why the Apexi Power FC was such a popular starting point for any SR20 owner wanting to take their car further than stock. As soon as you did any mods it upset the computer and it ended up over fueling to protect the engine
 
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pikie

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Hi all got it going! defiantly goes better, how ever its seems you are right on 1 bar of boost that i have been running for a long time with the ADM ecu it is quite lean in the mid section even with water injection system. :( so it looks like i have to bring the boost down to normal for a little bit until i get a adjustable fuel pressure reg + Afc or a remap.
I no Power FC + aftermarket would be better for performance but i have had very modified cars in the past with aftermarket ecu's and its all a pain in the arse, this car gets driven to work every day needs to idle for long periods with the air con on so i just don’t want the problems of idle, retuneing dyno time and all that. I am not looking for huge power figures I just want I bit more power with easy to maintain light bolt on’s so when I go to sprints and drags I can give the old Silvias and skylines a good go.
I recently hit the strip with the stock clutch slipping badly and my best time before it completely let go was a 13.3sec 400m which I thought was quite good. I have a new clutch now ill run that in and c how I go with getting a better mixture before I bring the boost back up.

Thanks
 
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pikie

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problem

I think I have found another issue related to the ECU swap. What does it mean when the standard red dashboard immobilizer light turns on and stays on while the car is driving?
The other thing that seem linked is with the standard ADM ecu the car started first kick almost instantly, now with the JDM ecu it seems to turn over 2- 3 times then kicks, then straight after it starts and runs the red light comes on and stays on. The light only turns off when you turn the engine off. When you take the key out it then it begins to flash. Would the standard immobilizer need different wires or signal to the JDM ecu? I never expected this kind of stuff to happen by simply changing the ecu to a JDM.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
 
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All I can think of is because you've changed to the JDM ECU, but your still using your ADM key which has the chip in it for the NATS, its not recognising it. I have the same thing because I have a Power FC which has no NATS:)
 
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pikie

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so is there a way to fix it. i look up the NATS on the Workshop Manual and its pritty vauge. ill take it to my freind terry who works at nissan to c if there is a way to reset or egt it to work again.
 
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